Maybe read my safely modding thread like I had already told you to.

The difference between a 3.4" and a 3.5" aren't much...but were gonna go to school kiddo. Read the blue.

1) a 2.5" downpipe is not the best i know but its still a hell of a lot better than the 2.09 stock one! it was available localy for cheep so i figured it would save me money from ordering online and playing for shipping

2.5" is just as bad a stock ass DP. 3" or nothing. If you care about your car then you'll go 3". If you don't...then well...that's your call.

2) TR6 plugs are the same degree as the Autolight 104's which are recommended for supercharger applications

Ummm, no. They aren't. NGK TR6's are the plug that sits inbetween Autolite's race application 103's (for 3.0" and lower pulley setups) and Autolite 104's (which are the best recommended spark plug for your application gapped at .055"...TR6's are for common 3.25" setups. And you can't just run a super cold plug and expect it to kill KR...it'll hurt you...MPG's will ACTUALLY suffer and you'll get worse performance because you want the hottest spark you can get away with...not the coldest.

3)The breather keeps my oil cooler and lets air into the crankcase. (ZZP wouldn't sell it if it only made a vacuum leak)

So...your telling me...since ZZP says its ok and they sell it its made for your car you can just toss it on? Not really. Ever bought one of those "Make a Million Bucks in a week" books off of TV? Pretty much the same deal. If you take off your oil cap and it damn near sucks your hand down to the Valve Cover and you can't remove your hand easily from the suction...then you need a breather...and probably have too much crankcase vacuum. As for a stock car...or barely bolted on...put on a stock oil cap.

4)You couldn't be more wrong about the ubend only being part of the downpipe! I put the straight pipe inplace of the ubend myself and welded it in place. The Downpipe is a shorty so its not long enough to include the ubend!

So...I give you 1 point because I see where your coming from and Matt's from Canada so sometimes he sees sh1t bass ackwards.

5)Yeah I realize the Throttle body spacer does nothing performance wise, it simply keeps the throttle body away from the SC and keeps is cooler.

AND...it blocks coolant flow to the hear head and makes hot spots which PROBABLY are actually causing you KR. So...by dropping the temp of the S/C what...20* TOPS and increasing the temp of the rear head by at LEAST 20*...your hurting more than helping. So you lose the point you gained earlier trying to school someone who is trying to help you. You don't like it that we don't sugar coat sh1t? Sorry dude...were trying to save your motor, not your feelings.

6)My intake is fine

If your going to a 3.4" setup...go open cone. Whatever kind of BS CAI you have...ditch it for an Open Cone. Your welcome.

7)the T-stat helps KR and i dont give a **** about economy

And actually...your wrong again unless it is tuned. A colder T-Stat does NOTHING for your temps unless your cruising on the highway. It comes into play when you get a tune because of fan turn on degree points. And sure, it helps cool the motor a little but not enough to actually KILL KR...your KR killing is in your flow mods (I.E. BIGGER DOWNPIPE, and or HEADERS, and or a FRONT PLOG., Ported Blower Case/Ported TB)

Sure, I'm a dick. I don't care what you think. You just need to realize that there is always someone that has a faster car and someone that knows more than you do. And if you can't take other people's opinions...then boy...internet automotive forums are NOT FOR YOU. Feel free to take the knowledge I did leave you with to heart...and listen to people for once. Just saying.