Thread: Thinking about tearing down the engine

Honestly, unless you're tearing it down for something specific (larger pistons, L32 rods) I wouldn't touch it. The factory bottom ends seem to last longer than builds and they're quite strong. Also, as far as you're going with this, get a Helms manual set. I did before I went through with my engine swap and the electrical schematics themselves were priceless.

When I build mine from the block up, I had everything balanced so I am good for 7k RPM+ spins easy and removed the balance shaft.

I went with L32 rods, ARP rod bolts, ARP main bolts, Clevite bearings through out, Diamond 9:5.1 coated forged pistons, STANDARD bore, File to fit piston rings, Intense Stage 3 heads, MLS gaskets, the thin ones, Intense Stage 3 cam, originally OE-R lifters, but yanked them out after 3K miles and went with some used low mileage Comp. G lifters, Intense O.R. push rods, 1.7 adjustable roller rockers to name a few of the big ones. This year I pulled out my Roll Master double roller, and bought a new one, and had the back side of the crank gear machined as it should be for our 3800. The one I pulled was still fine, and still use able, after it gets machined correctly.

Pictures of my build:
Before:






This was the original motor from my car when I bought it. It was a '97 with 58K miles on it. The water pump failed causing the motor to over hear and seize totaling the car. I bought the car as it sat, with a bad motor, and installed a new 1999 Motor with only 7 miles in it and drove that for a year, then I was rear ended and the car totaled again. I rebuild the car, and thats how it looks today with the looks etc. About 3 years later, in late 2004 is when I started building my motor after I saved up a hefty sum.

If I had to do it again...I would buy a good low mileage L32 short block because of the raised compression and put good parts on that, and run it till its dead. You will save a ton doing it that way. Plus not have to worry about a "touched" bottom end, cause its VERY difficult to get a bottom end as close to factory specks with out the bearings throwing copper at you doing it yourself, or having an over priced shop do it, and even then...you have about a 10% chance of doing it as good as the factory IMO. Just the fact of life right there.

During and after:







and the second tear down to correct some problems with the first build:

such as:

for example.

I also installed the Intense revised roller rocker pedestals as well.



and removed my GenIII and put on the first ever fully polished GenV



some of it being reassembled:


ran the aluminum LIM gaskets this time, cause when it was first built, these were not out yet.







For me, it was a learning curve on all the little trucks needed to be done to do it right when compared to other engines I have built. If you have ever built and engine before, then this is a walk in the park, after you learn all the little things you need to do to avoid a quick failure. I didn't know it all when I built mine, but soon learned quick after it was built and running the first time, and took it apart quick only after 2200 miles before I really messed things up. Now all is well to this day, though...I'm getting a new supercharger in a month or so.

I'm sure we can walk you through a build, but through I would share those pictures with ya, so you know what to expect.

~F~