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Okay, that's too easy to NOT do during a top swap.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bio248
Can you pull out the balance shaft while it's open too? Or is that not a good idea.
I should probably disconnect it from spinning instead, since I'm thinking that if you pull it you'll see a drop in oil pressure because the oil will fly out from where the shaft met the bearings. Unless you seal the holes.
you cant pull it out unless you plug the oiling holes for the bearings on it. i just left mine in there and disabled it so that it wouldnt move, which is a required step when installing a double roller. i am unsure if youll be able to disable it with the stock timing set.
So, how hard is it to swap in a double roller?
Hear that? It's the sound of money flying.
double roller swap is as easy as putting in a new timing chain. it doesnt require a tensioner and gets new cam and crank/oil pump gears to put on with it. the problem is that the crank gear doesnt have the right chamfer on it from the factory so they need to be modified in order to run correctly otherwise they are run out of alignment with the cam gear and may rub on the oil pump housing which will both cause the chain to break. when the correct chamfer is used then the chain will not break. just make sure it's right before you put it on. i had one on my car which i ran with a cam and when i had rockers and never had any problems for the 25k+ miles i ran it.
So, the oil pump is driven via the crank snout? Sounds just like my LS2.
You wouldn't happen to have any pics of that stuff down there, would you?
i sure dont. if you search around here you can find some. a thread just came up recently where farnsworth put up a few good pictures of it all.
I love mine and it puts out good numbers considering im still running a 3.4 and dont have a dp/plog on yetQuote:
Originally Posted by minichopper6hp
and im on a canned intense tune my blower isnt ported and 91 is the best gas i can get
when i do the pem/dp and pulley drop im going back on the dyno for sure to see the real gains maybe have it tuned as well
yeah, the numbers in your signature are very promising for your setup. some exhaust work and a smaller pulley and youre going to have one hell of a monster on your hands.
Wait... no headers?Quote:
Originally Posted by TorqueAutoMotiv
Do you have a dyno sheet to post up? Curious on what it looks like...
Im a s1x lover as well.
Alright, im going s1x then. I assume the same springs/retainers/lifters can be used. Also good on a stock timing chain?
assuming youre going 105# with the associated retainers then yes. stock lifters are good for anything. you can use a stock timing chain with this cam and pretty much any cam so long as you replace the tensioner when you're supposed to.
Any reason to go with anything over 105? Or am I just thinking overkill? I know you want enough spring pressure to stop valve float...
depends on the cam. with big cams id go for 130# for sure. actually, because im who i am i would run 130# springs anyway and rev it to high hell.
i was scanning them and it wasnt working now they are mixed in with a bunch of papers ill see if i can find themQuote:
Originally Posted by GeosGP
That seems like great power for not having headers. If I can get away without them, I will.
im running stocker chain new ofcourse the springs were tested out at 110#s but they came with the heads i got from a member on hereQuote:
Originally Posted by minichopper6hp
new stock lifters used my old pushrods just cleaned them up and tested for straightness
currently on the 3.4 pulley i have zero kr aswell ill dp and put the pem's i have in my garage on before the 3.2Quote:
Originally Posted by GeosGP
I would imagine you'd see pushrods that are messed up if our cars came with a manual transmission. Not saying that it doesn't happen, but I think the incidence is far lower than say with an F-body.
I have a front plog, planning on doing a DP, then playing with the pulley size and a tune. Should be interesting.Quote:
Originally Posted by TorqueAutoMotiv