Thread: Dies at Idle and Refuses to stay running

The car that I speak of is a 2000 Grand Prix GTP. Yesterday when coming home from the beach the car ran great and I knew I was a little low on gas so I was going to fill up after school today, I had about 4 gallons left according the display and previous fuel economy calculations. I started the car this morning to go up the road and it dies about thirty feet from my house. Thinking that it was a fluke, I tried to restart it and of course, it falls on its face. So, I go to the gas station using my aunt's truck and get a gallon of fuel and put it in. No luck, the car still will not idle.

So I had my dad bring home the scanner from work to check what is going on and I don't see anything really out of the norm. The MAF is reading about 1 lb/hr at idle, or the short lived idle that it has, which is about 7-10 seconds. When the car shuts off I can hear the fuel pump prime and when I turn the key to the on position I can hear it prime.

I did the fuel pump resistor fix with the kit from gm only to have the car do almost the exact thing as today so I bypassed the resistor by bending pin 87 and I have been driving like that for about two or three months until today. I unplugged the MAF sensor only to have the car die faster than if it was plugged in.

I noticed something odd though, if I keep working the gas pedal, applying it and letting it off, keeping the engine between 3000 and 4000 rpm I can keep it running. As soon as I stop working the pedal though, it dies.

I have an idea that it is fuel related but I don't have a fuel pressure gauge, but if I have to I will buy one for the sake of solving this issue. Sorry if the message is a bit long, I just wanted to give as much info as possible.

i had a similar problem. the fuel pump resisitor went bad. i belive with supercharged gp's the fuel pump runs at 2 RPM's, a lower one for idle, and a higher one for past a certain motor RPM. i replaced it with the upgraded kit (it puts the resistor out in the open to cool better). it's orig located behind the pass. headlight, in the fenderwell. there is a tip on this forum on how to bypass the fuel pump resistor to see if that is what is causing your prob. by using your exisitng fuel pump fuse. try it out. let me know how you make out. hope this helps.

You are right about the car having a dual speed fuel pump and that was what was wrong with the car when I bought it. Currently I have the bypass mod in place so I don't think the resistor is going to be the culprit.

Ok, how would I go about checking the crank position sensor as the only code that I have is for a small EGR leak, which I would say is unrelated. I do have a scanner but I don't know what to look for on it.

haha sorry! i was in the middle of doing something when i read it and i totally skipped that whole paragraph! i hate when i do that, sorry again. i had to replace the cps too. i think theres 2 of them, one is alot easier to get at than the other. it would just stall w no warning.

I don't know if this is a related issue but when I accelerate very quickly, I am talking full throttle while rolling onto the throttle to prevent wheel spin, the brake light will come on. It is the same break light that turns on when the parking brake is depressed.

huh? that's a new one, i don't see how they could be related other than the abs system, but that has it's own light.