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When you take the timing cover off, you're not even into the oil pump. You have to go further and remove a cover from it. Went through this back when I did my cam.
Just be sure when you install a cam, crank or whatever, to use liberal amounts of assembly lube. Then a dry start becomes even less of an issue, and it's the proper way to put things together and protect them during the crucial moments of their first startup.
When you had that gear machined down, was that just a 45* angle? I do not have a stock gear but I have a new Rollmaster here I want to add a little more angle to it. Thanks.
I think it was around a 45* angle yes.
Might be worth the investment to take in with you a stock crank gear so they have something to measure and reference for your sake, the new roll masters sake, and your peace of mind.
I'm using a few old ones as a paper weight myself.
~F~
Thanks, I might just go a little over to make sure (not just the tabs)...
Sorry to bring up an old thread but i just purchased an XP cam, 105# springs, retainers and a rollermaster double roller. I have a top swapped l36. Will i still need to have the chamfer of mine matched or is it different on the L36?
You will need to have it machined. The L36 and L67 share the same crankshaft.
Thanx i figured this was the case. I just wanted to double check.Quote:
You will need to have it machined. The L36 and L67 share the same crankshaft.
im doing a can install now and im a little confused. i see there is an issue with the rollmaster but is the jp double ok. im going to look at it once the crank gear is off but you guys would know better than i would
I don't think I've read any issues on the JP chain.
no issues with mine so far.
Gixer, this might help:
Rollmaster Spec sheet - How to! - DIY - GTP World Forum - Message Board - Yuku
save your money and save your motor buy a JP
well i took a good look at it and it looked close to the stock gear so i just put the double gaskets.
you should machine down the pump cover too. its easy and effective.
My opinion, I would machine the pump for both the Rollmaster as well as the JP set up just to be sure. Unless you are measuring in there with a feeler gauge and can see there is plenty of room...I would go ahead and just run it and forget it, but if there is not a lot of room, I would have it machined.
The back side of the JP's do have a far better chamfer than the Rollmasters, but not enough IMO to be comparable to a stock crank gear. For that reason, machine the oil pump cover.
~F~
Double gaskets and machined oil plate cover does not fix the fact that the Rollmaster can not press on the crank as far so that would mean that the chain is not going to be straight. It is going to be trying to run at an angle so the chain will wear out faster and then it will be loose and start rubbing again...
^Yup, still need to have the back side of the crank gear machined. Made ALL the difference in the world for my installment. No joke, almost mandatory to have this done on all Rollmasters.
I can have it professionally done here for $10.00 to $15.00 if nobody has any connections else where.
~F~
Here's an idea, just get the JP chain and be done with it. I'll never have rollmaster again. In fact, I'll probably never go double roller again.
Just my opinion....I may be slightly bitter toward this topic.
I got my Rollmaster chain before this was figured out, plus there are still people who are going to buy the Rollmaster because they go on sale for $49. So for those who do get them, that is what this info is for. If you do not want to hassle with grinding or machining the gear than the JP is the one for you. But I also did the machined oil plate just in case...
I machined my oil pump plate, aaaaand ran double gaskets. This was a failure resulting in the different chamfer that Farnsworth fixes. But mine also still rubbed on the oil pump.