Thread: Meth vs Intercooler

Would seem to me that a nozzle after the intercooler might be somewhat helpful. An intercooler cannot cool the charge any more than to ambiant temp. Placing the nozzle after the IC would seem to be benificial because it would cool the charge a bit more than the IC would be able to...assuming that the charge was getting cooled to somewhere around ambiant by the IC. I can't seem to recall just how close the IC gets the charge to ambiant...

it isnt so long as you dont change the settings on it all the time.

tune the car as best you can with it off. whenever you start to knock in the boost range (usually about 7 psi or so and up) then set your meth to turn on then. from there scan and add timing and boost as it will allow. make sure youre hitting full pressure with the meth a little before your full boost pressure.

Looks like ill be adding meth to my build

Yea, tune yoru car OFF meth. Then when you put it on set the start point to around 3psi and ramp it up to say 8psi. This should get it to start spraying before you get Kr and keep the iat down so that kr does not show up.

Main thing with meth is don't go by the if a little is good more is better mentality. Most m90 cars will run best with a DO3 for low modded. r DO5 nozzle for the more moded setups.

Originally Posted by ais

If you use a boost reference progressive controller on a Eaton or for that matter any roots or twin screw supercharger. Your not going to get much of any progressive feature out of your water methanol injection system at all.

These superchargers go right into full boost when you nail it. The same thing is going to happen with your progressive controller. It going to zip right past the start point you set and hit your max setting sending the system into full flow. The company who sold you that water methanol injection system should have explained this to you and just put you into a Stage 1 system and saved you some money.

If you want a progressive feature, which by the way you probably really don't need, they should have set you up with a 0-5 volt controller and based the injection off of your mass air signal. Not a boost signal. Then you would get a true progressive feature out of your system.

Plus, the reality is you don't need any injection at 3 psi. You can run these engines just fine to 5-6 psi on pump gas with no water methanol injection. If you set it to start spraying at 3 psi your just going to end up using a lot of fluid with normal around the town driving.

If it were me i would use a simple and less expensive Stage 1 system with the switch set at no earlier then 5 psi (if your running 8 psi) that way you offset normal around the town driving.

Rodney

Plus, a number 3 nozzle on these non intercooled engines is too small. Pull air temps and you'll see it will only drop the air temps 30-40 degree's from it's normal 220-240 degree's at 8 psi depending on the ambient temps of the day.

i realize what youre saying, but when you actually run a meth kit you want the progressive controller. i ran it and the difference between peak boost and whatever is made at WOT is different. i set mine to turn on at 8 and peak at 11-12. i made a pound or two more boost at the top of each gear which is where i wanted the progressive aspect of the controller.

Originally Posted by Bio248

i realize what youre saying, but when you actually run a meth kit you want the progressive controller. i ran it and the difference between peak boost and whatever is made at WOT is different. i set mine to turn on at 8 and peak at 11-12. i made a pound or two more boost at the top of each gear which is where i wanted the progressive aspect of the controller.

Oh your right. You made a pound or two on the top of each gear. I know. Trust me you can get a Stage 1 system to perform the same exact way as your progressive system with setting you have.

I've set up hundreds of systems. If I had a customer come to me with a GTP running 11 psi and he has the good 93 pump gas. I would set him up with a stage 1 system and set the switch to activate at 8 psi just as you have.

Now here's something you might find interesting. When you look at air temp logs on these non-intercooled Eatons. You'll see a slight initial gradual decline in air temps before they bottom out when you fire off a Stage 1 system.

You see when you fire off a Stage 1 system, even though its a flat rate system, it doesn't all hit the cylinder when its fired off. that is if your spraying it before the supercharger. A large part of the initial injection is lost as it evaporates when it comes in to contact with the rotors surfaces when passing through the supercharger. So the initial hit doesn't all get shot gunned right into the cylinders. A large part of it is lost to the supercharger roots and case. As the supercharger begins to quickly cool off less of the water methanol is eveporated and makes its way past the supercharger into the lower intake in effect giving you sort of a progressive feature.

Hope this helps explain. I've setup water methanol system and worked with a lot of guys running Eatons or other roots and twins screws such as the Kenne Bells, Magnachargers, Whipples etc.

Rodney

Originally Posted by ais

If you want a progressive feature on your car then get a controller that works off of a 0-5 volt signal and pull your signal off the MAF. Just trying to help here.

Rodney

The devils own controller does run off a 5 volt signal.

Originally Posted by ais

If you want a progressive feature on your car then get a controller that works off of a 0-5 volt signal and pull your signal off the MAF. Just trying to help here.

Rodney

I just want to point out so someone does not try this. never hook up an item intended for 0-5v input to an item that gives off a 12v signal ..... Anything that is gm maff is this way. But you should not that because like you said you have sold hundreds of these.

Originally Posted by ais

If you want a progressive feature on your car then get a controller that works off of a 0-5 volt signal and pull your signal off the MAF. Just trying to help here.

Rodney

How is the devils own controller not exactly that? I runs off a 5 volt signal from the map.

Ye even though i promised my mom id never use meth
The devils own kit is on my wish list
Install wise pretty straight forward?

yep, especially if you use your own reservoir instead of the washer fluid tank.

i like having a seperate tank so i could still use my washer fluid. having the car as a DD kinda sucked. however, that washer fluid tank holds a hell of a lot of fluid and already has a level sensor in it.

any suggestions for a good set up
Im triing to do this using the measure 2x cut 1x method so any upgrades and so that i should look into
Id rather come out of pocket a little more now then later

you can buy the reservoir i used from me. aluminum, holds 1/2 gallon (which lasts quite a while). i had mine where the stock 97/98 coolant reservoir goes.

$75 to your door.