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looked at the way the wires were ran and both are the same, so routing them the same way. another thing I've noticed in my swap is on my NA I have this;
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...125_213314.jpg
the SC engine does not. should I swap that over to the SC engine?
yes you need it, it smoothens out the air for the maf to read.
1 4 or 4 1, does it matter???Quote:
Originally Posted by Swiggles
I thought coil fires both plugs/wires. One is a waste spark the other is for the ignition spark.
The SC coil looks upside down, I wonder what vehicle that came from.
old one out, new ready to go in
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...126_171726.jpg
Did you put a new oil pan gasket on while it's out? Looks a little dirty and wet on the "new" one. Much easy to do it with the motor out ;)
And put the motor mount bracket on before it goes in too, easier to drop it on the mount then to try and line up the bracket through the wheel well. But do the oil pan before you put the bracket on.
i cant see how you took the ac off th el36, but do not try to use its bracket, the l67 ac bracket is clocked a bit different and the belts will rub if used, i know this cause i thought i was being slick. had to change it to the l67 bracket.
I did put on a new oil pan gasket today, didn't have some RTV for the corners.
the AC bracket came on the SC engine, so I left it on there, put the AC on when the engine was back in the vehicle.
I tried to put the SC belt on today, and I think they gave me the wrong belt, no way this one is fitting. next thing up is
finish up the various vacuum, electrical connectors and fuel lines, any advice?
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...127_195007.jpg
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...127_194958.jpg
and since I am out here, used the Billboost method, and many thanks to him, would have been a pain without him! and the bracket in the back of the engine that you remove to get the tranny bolt on the driver side from the pass side wheel well was a HUGE pain.
its not that bad, i just took that off and put it back on yesterday. that backwards bolt fails to find its way back in a lot. mine surely didnt make it back home lol
in the end its best to remove that bracket for a tranny or engine swap even if the bolt is not there anymore.
some of your plugs will not reach sensors on the l67, like the na evap is on the front sc its on the rear, so either move the evap or cut its pig tail off and make it longer. plugs cant be mixed up, they only fit where they belong.
Including the injectors?
Once you know where that bolt is it's not that bad. Easier to see with headers :D
first off a big THANK YOU to billbost. the hot to guide was instrumental.
second, THANK YOU to scotty, computer hooked up and worked like a charm.
lastly, THANK YOU to everyone else that had the patience to answer all of my questions and encouraged me to keep with the plan.
Fired up the GP tonight for the first time, grumbled at me at first, smoothed out half a second later and has been running fine. I had
just a shade under 1/4 tank drove to the local moto mart and filled with premium (91 octane) and drove home (10-11 miles). I did get
on it once or twice on the highway, jumped from 60-70 rather quickly. I have all of the connectors hooked up except one, the MAP sensor,
didn't see it on the S/C engine.
you need that map sensor, its what reads your boost and tells the pcm whats going on. you would need to cut off the l67 map pig tail and cut yours off and solder on the l67 pig tail and use its map.
map would be next to the evap solenoid back side of the blower near the alt, its got a vac line running to it from the T under the snout.
good to hear shes up and running good. happy to help. :)
you can use the map sensor connector you have if you pick up an 04+ 2 bar map sensor, which I have and will sell for a reasonable price.
edit: if you have the NA wire harness still, this is applicable.
About 8 months ago I got a P0420 code, clogged cat. I cleared the code and the car ran fine until about 1 month ago and got the code back again. at this point I ordered a ZZP downpipe with a cat and before I had a chance to install it the car started running rough and got a P0300 code. I changed the down pipe hoping it would solve both issues, and it seemed to for about a week. I again got the P0300 so went to the junk yard and grabbed an ICM and additional coil. installed that today and the car is still running like crap. I sprayed some carb cleaner around all of the vacuum lines and the car runs the same, so no leaks there. Installed new plugs and wires when I installed this engine during thanksgiving, and engine wise, other than oil changes, haven't touched a thing. Did I grab another bad ICM? Should I try changing that with another? Thoughts?
Can you see what cylinders it's missing on?
Still have the EGR?
Changed intake gaskets?
Injectors?
Could be those too...but I'd roll with the guy above me and see if you can get a read on which cylinder is ticked off and why. Usually you can just swap the coils and injectors around and see if the misfire follows.
I drove for a mile or so yesterday running like garbage, but it didn't throw a code yet. drove my Lincoln in today and doubt I will mess with it tonight, 100+ with heat index here today, upper 80's tomorrow so will check then.