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Nothing connected to the alternator that's not a part of it :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch
There is a bracket behind the UIM, though. Only thing connected to it is this shield that supports the fuel lines:
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/dde2ee1f.jpg
Is this necessary, or can it be removed too?
fuel lines touching hot egr = bad.
So leave it then :p
Is there any particular reason for oil covering the bolts when I removed the lift points? I wouldn't think they'd go that deep.
LIM bolts?
The bolt holes are open to the head/rocker cavity.
LOL, since when do LIM bolts go through the engine lift brackets?Quote:
Originally Posted by matt5112
OP, when I removed my lift brackets I just teflon coated the threads on the bolts and put them back in the block.
Leaking valve cover?
How many other bolts do you know of that are open to oil?Quote:
Originally Posted by OH4CompG
Valve cover leaking is a good possibility for why those bolts would have oil on them.Quote:
Originally Posted by matt5112
I put the bolt back in, I'll have to remember to go back and coat the threads before they fall out. I just left the nuts off the bolts that were coming from the motor.Quote:
Originally Posted by OH4CompG
It wasn't pouring oil or anything, the threads just had oil on them, as did the bracket where the bolt had been.
Most likely a leaky valve cover gasket then. I'd add that to the upcoming maintenance. As for the teflon, I just did it to do it. Others just thread the bolts back in with no issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowSwept
Well, first is a fuel line fix so I'm not spraying fuel at my rear valve cover anymore:th_lipssealed1:, then headers to fix my leaky manifold. I'd like to get polished aluminum valve covers, but they're a bit out of my current budget with all the other fixes.:(
From what I can tell, the EGR is often deleted when headers are installed. Aside from the block off plates, would I need anything else to keep things running smooth?Quote:
Originally Posted by matt5112
Disable the codes.
I know it throws a code, but would there be any effect on the engine? I still have the stock PCM and no tuner:(.
Delete the EGR for a cleaner look, & find someone local with a HP Tuner to delete the EGR code. Done.
Okay, but wish me luck finding anyone local with a tuner :p
On the lift bracket bolts. The only way they can be oily is a leaking valve cover gasket. Or a previous leaking cover gasket. No need to put those bolts back in or coat them. They are extras if the lift brackets are off.
Do you have any state emission inspections in KY? Years ago when I worked for an emission testing company we did have some areas of KY. If so.. they may do a visual check for the emissions equipment aka EGR.
Likely I was the only intercooled guy to still have an EGR on my car. :) Always passed inspection too.
No testing here, I was just worried about the ECM flipping out because something was missing.
As far as valve cover leak; there's thick gunk all around the front gasket, not as bad in the back, but there is a small leak on the drivers side. There's some orange rubber sticking out there and a bit of fresh oil.
^^^that orange rubber is your valve cover gasket. That's not a good thing.
Nope..that likely means you are building pressure in the covers, which points to a bad or incorrectly installed pcv. At least that's the experience I've had.
Looks fine as far as I can tell, not that that really says anything. How can I check to be sure?
Also, I'm fairly convinced at this point that the mechanic the salesman used before I bought the car was an idiot, and both valve covers and the UIM have been replaced. Is there a chance he just mucked up the gasket on the install?
-Checked it again. It's not flowing oil, and when I wipe it it stays dry for several days, but the shredded gasket does spread the length of the rear valve cover, not just the one spot as I had thought.