no real tuning done yet just a maf tune for the ported tb and lim and raised shift points for the hv3 insert
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05-02-2012
no real tuning done yet just a maf tune for the ported tb and lim and raised shift points for the hv3 insert
05-02-2012
I'd be willing to bet you can get the rest of that KR out with a good tune session. Then you won't have to worry about popping it.
05-02-2012
Did u get the crank gear machined to the correct chafer? like below?
Before machining Double on the left stock on right
After Machinging Stock on left double on right
05-02-2012
MAF tables are off with the ported TB...stock one it probably wouldn't have much knock if any.
Also...are you running 91+ octane...or just 87?
05-02-2012
when running 87 knock at wot is 7-8 with 2-3 at part throttle when shifting ,when i put in 93 awhile back it was around 3-4 at wot. Doesnt look like the headers did anything for reducing knock right now.
05-02-2012
If it is lowering with octane...then it's REAL knock.
That's why I asked.
Have you replaced your actual motor mounts?
05-02-2012
well dealership and the shop that did my headers said the mounts looked fine but i did buy some solid lowers as replacements. So i'll see if i can the solid ones in just need to pound away at the firewall for more clearance
05-02-2012
N/A car knocking with loads of octane and headers sounds like my car.
I swapped heads, ran an M90 and KR free on 16*.
06-06-2012
So it could be my stock heads causing the knock?
Anyways i was able to use ls4 fans as a cheap alternative as slim cooling fans. Only 3 inches deep so the headers wont rub against anything and i can easily swap in a larger rad. I can get a 7/8 radiator off the dohc monte's for $70-80 or should i go for a 1 1/4 radiator from autozone $115?
06-06-2012
get the big radiator. once you start trying to push boost the car gets hot.
06-06-2012
With all that room in front you could probably rock the motor forward to get more room in the back for the rear mani.
Did you bash the firewall with the BFH yet?
06-07-2012
just went at it with a prybar. There no vibration when the car is on and in park. And only a little in reverse because the bent dipstick is touching the brake booster. If i could get the motore to stay like it is in park while in drive there would be no problem. I have zzp poly rad mounts and solid motor/tranny mounts in there now wondering if i should switch poly's lowersOriginally Posted by Rico
06-07-2012
The shorter dog bones would probably be perfect.
Can't beat it for $28 from ZZP.
The solid rubber lower mounts should be fine. No?
06-07-2012
Shorter dog bones were from the GM vans. You can buy them cheaper and without shipping from your parts store.
06-07-2012
Bill. Is this the mount for a 2000 Pontiac Montana?
Duralast/Motor Mount (2899) | 2000 Pontiac Montana 6 Cylinders E 3.4L SFI | AutoZone.com
$7.99 from Autozone. Saves ya about $14 plus shipping.
06-07-2012
Poly lowers have NO give at all.
They are brutal.
But man, that motor or transmission doesn't move...at ALL.
06-07-2012
coolest gp build evar
06-07-2012
sub'd
06-07-2012
problem with the shorter dogbones is that supercharger bracket was made for the stock dogbone so right side would be more forward the left. Does anybody think poly dogbone bushings would help? or should i just get a poly motor mount and keep the trans solid rubber?
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