Thread: Motor Replacement

Ok, I have figured out that the failed e-check was more than likely because of the converter. I got the car started and pulled it from outback into our muffler shop and raised it up, somebody that owned it prior had cut the converter off knocked the inside of it out and welded it back on.

The other motor I had found fell through so now I'm back to looking and found some L26's that are pretty cheap and low miles compared to the L36. Checked a couple of days ago and there weren't any L26's now there's about 10 of them, go figure.

Now I seen I had to change the upper intake from the L36 to the L26 but from what I have been reading it seems like every L36 that gets a rod knock is caused by the upper intake cracking where the EGR tube comes through dumping coolant into the lower intake which drains to the pan and causes it to spin a bearing. I am assuming that's what happened to this motor so I don't want to change the upper intake onto a nice L26 to have it ruin that one. Is there an easy way to check the upper for the crack? Even if I have to get another L36 upper used I don't think I would want to put it on the L26 and have it crack in 10k miles and ruin the L26?

Originally Posted by g4m3r7ag

Ok, I have figured out that the failed e-check was more than likely because of the converter. I got the car started and pulled it from outback into our muffler shop and raised it up, somebody that owned it prior had cut the converter off knocked the inside of it out and welded it back on.

The other motor I had found fell through so now I'm back to looking and found some L26's that are pretty cheap and low miles compared to the L36. Checked a couple of days ago and there weren't any L26's now there's about 10 of them, go figure.

Now I seen I had to change the upper intake from the L36 to the L26 but from what I have been reading it seems like every L36 that gets a rod knock is caused by the upper intake cracking where the EGR tube comes through dumping coolant into the lower intake which drains to the pan and causes it to spin a bearing. I am assuming that's what happened to this motor so I don't want to change the upper intake onto a nice L26 to have it ruin that one. Is there an easy way to check the upper for the crack? Even if I have to get another L36 upper used I don't think I would want to put it on the L26 and have it crack in 10k miles and ruin the L26?

I can get a L26 motor for $800 with 18k miles on it

I found one on car-part with 38k for $450. I'm still confused about changing the Upper intake though when that's the most likely the reason the motor went bad in the first place?

edit: We posted at the same time, Ok thank you for the info cause I really don't want to use the plastic upper that is prone to cracking on an L26. Ok so if I don't switch the upper intake will I still switch the fuel rail, alternator bracket?

And I would be using the L36 throttle body just with an adapter from zzp so it bolts to the L26?

Ok so pull the L36, pull the alternator bracket off, pull the fuel rail off. Put the alternator bracket onto the L26 and bolt the L26 alternator to the L36 bracket. Put the L36 fuel rail onto the L26 and drop the L26 back in and bolt up the L36 throttle body to the L26 intake with said adapter plate.

Seems easy enough in theory. I'm assuming for a used throttle body adapter plate I'll have to check the forum classifieds? Doesn't seem like it would be a common eBay item?