Thread: Runs 5 minutes...Stalls...Changed everything

FIXED!! READ ON!!

First off, I originally had a thread that said...Troubleshooting HELP!!! Fuel issue...possible fuel pump????HELP, but to simplify things here goes and thanks for all the previous help.

I have changed the fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, fuel pump regulator, EGR, IAC and the spark plugs...and my car will start up fine. After a few minutes it will just sputter and then just shuts off. I can pump the gas a try to keep it running...to no avail. What should I check next? I have already lost all my patience.

Also, the TCS light does not come on, theres no problem with tach, it does not have a resistor (its a GT) and the CPS was new when the motor was installed in December.

Please help...I was thinking MAF, but I don't need to spend anymore on a guess. $700.00 and counting with no fix

What you are describing sounds like an issue with the CPS. You got the remember that the CPS is a two segment sensor. One part controls the tach signal and thus has a play in TCS, the other controls the spark. When I replaced mine last, for the second time, in January I too did not have any TCS indications or Tach indications. However, I could idle the car then after a few minutes it would just die and would not restart right away. The first time it was replaced, it would stumble a bit and I MIGHT loose the tach and TCS and it would keep on going. Occasionally it would just outright die or stall on me but it would start back up fairly quickly.

The one way to prove it is the CPS is to let it idle until it dies. Then pull the #1 plug off at the coil pack end. Stick a screw driver up into the boot so that it make contact with the metal clip. Then with the help of a friend, spouse, etc, have them get in the car and try and start it. You'll want to hold the metal part of the screwdriver close to the coil pack terminal and see if it is getting any spark. Obviously you dont want to be touching the metal of the screwdriver with your hand unless you like that sorta thing.

If you are not getting any spark there then I feel confident in saying the issue is likely the CPS. Ive put two of those things on my car in the past 4 years. I certainly understand your frustration, trust me I do. You've spent all this money and are no better of as a results. But do this bit of troubleshooting so that we can rule out the CPS for sure. After that, with all the work you have done, there isnt much else to check and my next step would be to look at the MAF. Because you did not mention it Im going to assume there are no codes or SES light.

You'll have to bear with us as troubleshooting with only text is a challenge to say the least unless someone here has had the exact same problem. We dont get to hear how the car runs when it does, we dont get to hear how it dies, we cant hook a laptop up to it or a scan tool and so on. Look at it like this. You arent going to have to worry much about anything once you get it running, its all been replaced.

Yeah, keep in mind with most emissions related stuff, that SES light is going to come on in a hurry. If you get close enough to the EVAP solenoid you can hear it pulsating when the engine is running. I too wasnt aware that they worked that much either.

I have filled my gas tank to such a degree that it has caused stumbling, rough idle and for it to stall on occasion, but that usually clears up with a couple miles of driving.

Makes me wonder if this is my problem.... time to invest in a new MAF

They would probably clean up, but I too would probably change them out. Definitely glad to see that you have it fixed and running again. I dont think I have ever run across a MAF that did that. That is definitely a unique case. I drove to Kansas a couple years ago to troubleshoot a fellow GTP owner's car. When I got hooked up, we drove around and I scanned. No hesitation, no stalling, no nothing other than more KR than I would like to see.

Upon examining and monitoring his MAF I noticed no signal was coming from it at all. It was completely fried. Swapped his out with mine which was working, drove around some more. Now I could see the MAF changing with increases and decreases in air flow and almost all the KR was gone.

Ive seen a MAF cause rough idle before but I dont recall at anytime one that would cause it to run then just die. So I'll have to make note of that.

well, obviously in this case it did not throw a code, so in the case of your friend it could be the same...you could start a new thread with the exact symptoms as well, maybe someone has recently dealt with this on their gp......holy old thread, batman!