Thread: Cold air intake fitment issue

Do you have a metal UIM?

It's because the manifold is not only physically taller and thicker, but longer too. Plus you're adding the adapter to it. So to answer:

1. Will the 4 bolt LS throttle bodies line up with the L26 intake bolts? - Yes; however it's a totally different setup (cable vs. DBW). Won't work.
2. Is a LS1 Maf even tunable for a n/a basically stock engine? Would it go that low? Tuneable; sure. Worth it? Newp. Told ya that already.
3. Is there any other options other than of course cutting the hole out or going back to L36 manifold? Sure. Plenty of options. Sell the Trasher Intake and just go to an open cone. It's an N/A 3800. You're not making any difference in power...and if you are, you aren't noticing anything.

Originally Posted by wstefan20

Thanks for the input blue guy. I was under the impression that there were 4 bolt cable ls throttle bodies on some larger trucks and suvs.

I realize it's throwing way too much work and effort for such a small problem, but hey, that about describes this car in a nutshell!

There are...but like I said they're drive by wire...not cable driven like the 97-03's. I'm sure with enough jacking around it would/could work. But it's entirely not worth the trouble.

Originally Posted by wstefan20

Basically, I'm wondering if by removing the adapter and using the 4 bolt cable ls throttle body, I could dramatically shorten the snout, then position either an lq4 or ls maf sensor in line after I bend the tubing. I'm currently running an open cone and I love it, I'm more trying this for the principle of the thing and the look, which yeah, I know is probably dumb.

4 Bolt LS TB's are DBW as well...the cable driven ones are three bolt TB's...and you'll need an adapter. And an external MAF. So it actually extends farther than OEM stuff or what you are working with currently. I like the ambition...but it's also an N/A 3800. That's like saying: I really want to just retard or advance the timing on this adjustable cam gear on my '96 Civic D16 single slammer. Can you? Sure. But the benefits aren't worth the trouble.

Originally Posted by wstefan20

I'm thinking the "easiest" route would be to see if the adapter and a northstar throttle body with lq4 maf sensor fits since these are much easier to adapt since there are adapters and converters by zzp where I technically wouldn't even need a custom tune.

The easiest route would to be port that throttle body if you're wanting to do something. The Thrasher box is a nice piece; but it's just literally not worth all the trouble messing with it. I get it that it is about the presentation...but if that's the case just hack the crap out of the inlet portion of the box and angle it with some random silicone elbow. Frozen Boost sells a bunch of quality stuff.

Originally Posted by wstefan20

Plus, I'm not sure where I'm going with this car, if I go turbo, although the gains would be small, I'd already have the maf sensor I need.

I really appreciate the input, and will definitely take it into consideration. Any other thoughts are appreciated!

If you're going turbo the Thrasher Box is gone anyways. So there's that to figure, too. So is it worth messing with it when you're eventually going to toss it out the window since the snail is going to be sitting right there.

This came out of a GP? How the hell do you connect it? Seems like the housing is too large?

Here's my K&N for reference.....

Looks like maybe you are supposed to cut down the intake hose?

WBody world is basically toast.

Hence why the involvement isn't much anymore. There are still some out there but you're about a decade behind the height of it all, IMO.

You can put the PCM in the bumper behind the headlight with some harness rerouting. It's not much fun.

Bronco Boy - For one; that aftermarket alarm horn is in the way; I hate it when they're always put there. (If it's not something else, but that's where they put it on the GT I bought years ago). Another is the plugs on the strut tower; I usually remove the nut and plug them in underneath the ABS module. Really cleans up the space there.

Originally Posted by blueguy91

Bronco Boy - For one; that aftermarket alarm horn is in the way;

It is not in my way. LOL

Originally Posted by Bronco Boy

It is not in my way. LOL

Yeah but that K&N is worse than an OEM airbox lol

So there's that.

Originally Posted by blueguy91

Yeah but that K&N is worse than an OEM airbox lol

Worse? Really? I'd love to hear the reasoning behind that statement.

I use washable filters for that reason, I can wash 'em and re-use 'em. $20 for a stock filter, vs $50 for this used K&N kit. Seems like a good deal to me.

The filter isn't bad; it's the intake.

It's exposing the filter to tons of heat; the K&N on MANY platforms is a heat soaking pile. The hood doesn't seal anything with the weather stripping, the exhaust is right there heating up the plastic, not to mention the non-sealed hole around the tube that goes to the filter. You're literally just as fine running an open cone or a $30 eBay intake.

My point is a stock gutted airbox, with a smooth tube to the throttle body is better than that.

That's all. I'm personally using a K&N filter on my K1500 and an AFE Dry-flow on the C5. As for the GTP's I had open cone intakes. The GXP had a nice ColdAirInductions intake setup. Best one money can buy.

Originally Posted by blueguy91

You're literally just as fine running an open cone or a $30 eBay intake.

Agreed. But I think they look cheap, thus why I opted for the K&N.

Would have got a JMB FWI for that price

http://jmbperformance.com/product/w-...r-well-intake/

Originally Posted by blueguy91

Would have got a JMB FWI for that price

Like I said above.....

Originally Posted by Bronco Boy

vs $50 for this used K&N kit.

I would still be using my free AirAid drop in if I didn't find this K&N.