1994 Grand Prix, 3100 starting problem

[Bishop621]

Hi there. New to the forums. I'll try to make this post as succinct as possible.
Symptom: Car doesn't start. She rolls over just fine, but it won't start, not getting spark. Last week, during the pretty extreme cold temperatures we had here in Michigan, my battery finally went kaput.
Swapped it with a newer one (not brand new, my dad had one in a parts car he just bought)

I've tested :

Voltage to the Ignition Control Module = Good
Ground to the Ignition Control Module = Good
AC Amp from the Crank Position Sensor = Good
Voltage from the Cam Position Sensor, while hand cranking the engine = Good.
I swapped out the Ignition Control Module for one I got from a buddy at work. He pulled it off a 91 Cutlass Supreme, and it's the same part number. Still no spark. (Not 100% guaranteed that the new(er) Module is good, but it was running when he pulled it off)
Still not getting any spark. If I'm testing it correctly, I don't think I'm getting power from the ECM to the ICM. I tested it by disconnecting the plastic connector, and placing the probes in the B+ wire and the Ground wire of the connector. And I got /negative/ voltage. Does that mean the ECM is bad, that I tested used the wrong wires, or am I just throwing a big ball of stupid at it?

Thanks in advance for any advice/troubleshooting tips. This thing has been driving my crazy.

[l67ss]

Had the same prob with my 97 monte, ended up bein a short in pcm fusebox. Have someone move the wires around while you try to start it

[Bishop621]

PCM Fusebox..is that the one under the hood, right next to the battery?

[l67ss]

Should be by pcm

[Bishop621]

Replaced the Crank Position Sensor...now it's /worse/ Now it won't even roll over. That has been replaced by a loud buzzing sound when I turn the key. I give.

[AJ1G]

Did you fully recharge that battery that was pulled from another car prior to putting it in yours? Attempting to crank over engine with a very marginal battery might cause the starter relay to chatter off and on very rapidly and the engine will not crank.

Also, how are you checking for spark? The reason I ask was that I just went through a drill where my 2001 3.1 GP SE's fuel pump died about 4 miles from home. I initially thought I had simply run out of gas due to a flaky gas gauge, but it would not start after I put 5 gallons in the tank. Called for a tow. When the AAA tow guy showed up he pulled off a plug wire to do a quick spark check and just held the end of the rubber boot near the block..told me my problem was no spark. No surprise there - the boots are very long and there is no way you will get a spark to jump all the way from the plug terminal way up in the boot down to the block over that big a gap. I pulled the plug associated with the lead he pulled, put it in the boot of the loose ignition wire, held the body of the plug against the block using some well insulated pliers, and could see there was plenty of spark.

Also, be certain that what ever you are using as your ground reference to hold the body of the plug against is in fact a good ground point. I've been fooled by an assumed ground that in fact wasn't more than once.

Are you certain its not a lack of fuel? Fuel pressure at the fuel rail Schrader valve ok?

This is a relatively old thread, last post was over a month ago, did you clear up your problem?