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It should work fine. Buying an aftermarket one would be best and more durable but you should be fine for a while with a reman replacement and it may last indefinately. There are a number of local guys that I built transmissions for and a few deep into the low 12s with 140K mile original torque converters, that speaks for itself to me![]()
How do you feel about the aftermarket converters ZZP, Intense and W-body store sell?
ZZP states that there converter is superior to all on the market. Using a kevlar clutch material and is 245mm. They do not disclose who they have manufacture there converters.
Intense is using ATI converters. Haven't heard much about them, but they also use the 245mm.
W-body store looks like the zzp converters.
The main reason I looked for a long time for a converter builder is because most places use Kevlar... Which is a very poor choice of friction material for a PWM type lockup system that always allows slippage which is what the 4T65E does. Big performance companies quit using Kevlar years ago because it does not work well in a torque converter and I am shocked to see anyone still use it because of the long trail of problems it has caused over the years. ZZP converters definately have the best track record over time but I have never and will never prefer using Kevlar for a lockup clutch and this is one reason that when you run their converters you have to bump up the numbers in the lockup MIN apply % tables, which really isnt a big deal but there is no way around the pcm wanting to see slippage, unless modifications are made but lets avoid that for now. My converters are built with a proprietary lockup clutch material that was designed specifically to be used in a PWM system so no changes are required to the tune for proper operation. Kevlar is such a hard material it will actually chew the metal up inside the converter body before the friction material wears, that and it is known to chatter and not have very good bite. Also my converters have a 2 year 100% warranty and that is something that pretty much no other converter on the market has. Like I have been telling people for years about torque converters, you get what you pay for plain and simple. If you want to go the cheap route on a performance converter than as I mentioned earlier ZZP converters have the best track record. I know nothing about Wbody store converters and have heard of only one guy that used one and went back to stock along the way. Something else to think about here.... How many STOCK converter failures do you read about?? I cant recal any. How many aftermarket vendor supplied converter failures do you read about?? There are more than enough out there to warrant against them and that is why I prefer stock remans because they work and are reliable. It is up to you and is your money, just beware the possibilities of failures and when torque converters go bad they fill the whole trans with metal debris which makes the rebuild twice as bad as the first time.
Thanks Dave. I think I am going to go with a JXFM 258mm conveter for now. It is a stock reman, but it should work until I can save for one of your converters or until this one fails, whichever comes first. But hey, rebuilding the tranny is nothing new to me...hahaha![]()
No need to feel bad. It is just always something stupid that happens.
Hey 2 more questions for ya.
1. Remember I said that the 1-2 shift slips when I'm in L1 or D2. I know you said that is not a good thing to do and I don't much. However, if the gasket between the channel plate and the tranny case is blown out at the passage where the fluid travels when in L1 or D2, what should I look for as the cause of the gasket failing again? I made real sure that the gasket was lined up properly, not pinched or ripped and tightened down in the correct sequence. Mabe a straight edge on the channel plate mating surface? Too much pressure?
2. Why would a TC have a coast relief valve in it?
Last edited by japslpr; 10-01-2008 at 01:20 PM.
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