Thread: About Lights

1. legality
properly aimed headlights and colored lights will insure you won't get a real ticket

2 housing
cheap plastic usually is what melts, especially when you go from 35w to 55w hid's (why the 97-03 fogs sometimes melt)
now, a better quality housing, that was properly designed to dissipate heat and avoid uit at the same time will work fine. (most 00+ headlights)

3 plug n play
most hid's will work randomly when just thrown together w/ bulb connectors and thats it
so to fix a light oput or flickering you get a relay harness to supply the hids all the power they want straight from the battery w/o ****ing up the factory wiring. but because most vehicles were not designed for hid's there are bulb checkers that usually try and alert you to a bulb being out., so had to run resistors that matched the draw from a halogen bulb to reset the flickering lights and light out.

BI-XENON in factory housings w/o a retro
don't waste your money, all it is is a little magnet that pulls the bulb so it recreates a high beam spread. but w/o changing the intensity for the bulbs. they wll break and the bulbs cost the same as a single beam hid kit shipped,

Originally Posted by z3r0

BI-XENON in factory housings w/o a retro
don't waste your money, all it is is a little magnet that pulls the bulb so it recreates a high beam spread. but w/o changing the intensity for the bulbs. they wll break and the bulbs cost the same as a single beam hid kit shipped,

yes and no.

if you get a 'good' bixenon set the bulb will have two filaments in it. when you switch to high beams it will switch to the other filament that is placed farther forwards. that is where the 'you get what you pay for' comes into play with HIDs. i had these and they are a much, much nicer setup than the cheap magnetic/telescopic sets.