When i do it ill probably post a write up cause for some reason theres not a single write up on grill switching or laying down dynamat, so ill probably do one or atleast post build pictures. Its probably gonna take me a whole week since ill be dynamating the whole car, and rewiring everything.
I have to take the doors apart and fill any holes with plexyglass then cover them in dynamat and use plasticene clay on the speaker baffle to kill the vibration. Then coat the dynamat with a sheet of open cell foam to dampen whats left of the vibration. Then i get to remove all the interior completely and coat the floor, rear deck, and trunk in dynamat plus a little square on my license plate. Ill use more clay to keep vibrations out of the rear deck since I know those baffles will rattle, my oem speakers already shake those as it is, but they have enough bass to rattle my mirror when the bass hits so im not complaining. Then i get to spend hours going over the meticulous amounts of wiring. 100 ft of 12 gauge speaker wire 3 sets of RCA's with y splitters since there 4 channel amps unless i decide to go with the 2 channel 330 amp, 20 feet or so of 4 gauge. 25 feet of 1/0 gauge, distribution blocks, fuses, battery isolator etc. And whatever else comes up.
Ohh and good news my audio shop has said i can pick up a stinger dry cell battery for 20 bucks more than the optima so im gonna go for it. Itl'll charge faster and be alot easier on my electrics. But now i get to go find a good battery isolater for it
Question though how should i go about grounding the amps should i just ground off the new rear battery or should i run separate ground points in the trunk. Cause with the separate points i could probably keep the ground cables shorter but im not sure how well it would work.
