Bad gaskets?

[40th GP]

I see the sticky on torque specs. I also found this: http://www.grandprixforums.net/f73/3...specs-501.html, but it does not take me anywhere. Is that an old version that was replaced?

I have also seen varying opinions on how to do this: do I need new bolts? Do they need thread sealer? Are GM or FelPro (or other) gaskets preferred? Is there anything else I should do while in there (other than coolant elbows)--such as water pump, timing chain, etc.? Do the gaskets come with the right kind of RTV or do I buy this separate, and how much does it take and how long should it set up before sticking the intake back on? No other sealant other than RTV in the corners, correct? Anything else I should know before tearing into it?

I have also noticed that my temp gauge doesn't really move. I drove for 45 minutes straight today and it was up to the first or second mark from the bottom. I checked it with a scan tool (not today, and I don't remember how long I had driven at the time) and it showed something like 185 degrees. Does this seem like a problem, and could it be related or am I looking at more than one issue?

[SuperSport]

You do not need new bolts but you do need thread sealer (note: not thread LOCK) but I cant remember which brand/strength. I would go with GM aluminum LIM gaskets from any chevy dealer. Mine were $66. I got my coolant elbows at the dealer. Some argue that the $4 ones from auto-zoo are fine, but I have read stories of those leaking right out of the box. Like I said I got my elbows at the dealer since I was already there for my LIM gaskets. Peace of mind.

For the valve cover gaskets, valve cover grommets and UIM gasket set I used fel-pro brand. Get high temp RTV for the corner of the valleys. The video will show you where to use it.

If the water pump is not leaking, I would leave it. Its not hard to get to if it goes.

As for the thermostat, sounds like its opening too soon. Mine was doing the same. A duralast 195* is what you should replace it with.

[matt5112]

They leak outta the box if you dont install them properly lol.

The only benefit to the GM elbows is the orings resist crushing better apparently.

The only other thing you can do when you're in there is the lifters but they're pretty good as long as you drain the coolant (take off the lower rad hose) before you remove the LIM... Otherwise all that coolant dumps into the lifter valley and down around the cam and back down to the pan.

Supersport covered everything else.

[TheOtherNick]

Felpro gaskets are fine. Thread sealer on the bolts. Black RTV in the corners.

[40th GP]

Thanks for all the insight. If all goes well I will be tearing into it this weekend. Otherwise it will be next weekend, which will give me more time with the holiday...

[40th GP]

Getting under way today and have one more question: is the thread sealant for the bolts the same as the RTV that came with the gasket kit, or do I need something else for that?

[matt5112]

you'd need thread sealant.

RTV is something different.

[40th GP]

OK, got er done but have another question. The LIM kit (FelPro) came with a bunch of orings and gaskets that I did not use. I take it the kit includes various parts to make it compatible with various makes/models and that I will have extra parts that are not needed? For one, I had a bag of orings left, and it came with these blue edge gaskets that I did not use. Just want to make sure I didn't leave something out. It also came with 2 kinds of thermostat gaskets (the rubber type and the flat gasket type like in the picture--SCRATCH THAT--i CAN'T FIGURE OUT HOW TO UPLOAD PICTURES.). Are both of these suppose to be used or only 1? And, while on the thermostat, what is the best way to bleed the system? So far I have filled it to the top then left it overnight and it is down probably 3 inches from where I filled it, so I will fill it back to the top. Do I then just let it run with the heater on high and crack the bleeder till only fluid comes out?

By the way, both of my coolant elbows came out without breaking. I replaced them anyway, and will probably keep the originals in the trunk or in the toolbox as emergency spares. If anyone can let me know how to post pictures I will post pics of the procedure.

[SuperSport]

Post pics of the spare gaskets. It would be easier. Just open a free photobucket account, upload the pics and paste the IMG code here.

Im guessing the spare parts are for a GT car, since you said you have a GTP, they may not need to be used. But the blue edge gaskets might be the valve cover grommets...

[brandonl2000]

Well when I bought my Fel-Pro gasket set for my GT I had those two extra blue rubber seals left and a couple of O rings I believe. It's just extra. If you're running and not leaking then you probably got everything you need.

[matt5112]

You may think that but i found when i used the S/C LIM i needed the flat t-stat housing gasket as well as the o-ring. but when i was n.a i didn't need the housing gasket, just the o-ring.

[40th GP]

I won't be able to do pictures till I get home tonight. So I need both the flat and the rubber thermostat gaskets?

[40th GP]

I am still having problems with the pictures. I have a bag of orings that has 2 black orings, 2 orange orings, and a blue plug looking thing. I did not even open this bag. I also have 2 blue rubber seals that look like they go along the edge of the block, but they didn't fit right so I used the other set. I dont have any leaks yet, but I have not finished bleeding the cooling system either. Also, I have the flat thermostat gasket and the rubber (oring type) thermostat gasket. Do I need both or just the rubber one?

[matt5112]

are you n/a or s/c'd?

n/a is just the oring, s/c is both.

[40th GP]

supercharged. what is the difference?

[matt5112]

use both.

mine started seeping with just the o-ring.

As i've explained twice thus far:

at work there is no housing gasket listed, just the o-ring for a n/a engine.

for s/c there is both the housing gasket and the o-ring.

[40th GP]

Ok, so everything is back together and seems to be running fine. I did notice a squeel after first starting it when cold the first few times, but it seems to have gone away. I also hear a little more noise than it seemed I had before, but I didn't drive the car enough before to really gauge this. It sounds like the SC coupler to me, but it is just a slight noise. How crucial is this to change?

My temp gauge is also acting a little more normal. I didn't see anything wrong with the old thermostat, but I assume it was opening too early maybe.

I do have another question too, and since I noticed it while putting everything back together after the LIM operation I hope it is OK to ask it here. There is a big hole in the engine block right under the thermostat housing and temp sensor (probably the size of a nickel). What is this hole for?

[matt5112]

there was a thread about this not too long ago.

apparently its 100% normal.

[40th GP]

How about the coupler noise--how urgent is this to change? It is not that loud, but kind of sounds like a tumbler type noise (maybe like a dryer) or maybe like rocks rolling around in something. I am very particular and anal about my cars so I want to stress that the noise is not very loud or noticeable. Other people I have had listen to it did not hear it. Does this sound like a coupler, and it this something that will last a while before causing any damage, or should I get this done soon?

Also curious about the cooling system bleed process. I have searched and all I seem to find are quick posts with half information such as open the bleed valve with the heater running. I have done this and have continued to crack it quickly each day after driving home from work, but based on my gauge fluctuations it seems I still have a little pocket of air. Should this process be done with the radiator cap off? My bleed valve does not seem to be putting out any air or bubbles, so I am not sure how to get the rest of the air out or whether I should be adding coolant somewhere as I go. Am I missing a step?

[matt5112]

Unless you know a local you can't get it done.

no one will touch a supercharger.

I'd change it within the next month just so if its NOT the coupler you know somethings up.