Thread: Jerry's Tuner Notebook -> Wikified

I think you guys will be my heros. That should work perfectly. Them being so 'online only' is exactly what I dislike about them. I mean, if Im working on my car and following a How To, I dont want to have to drag my laptop around with me and keep clicking through pages to follow the thing.

Crap, give me a nicely formatted print out and call it good. I'll recycle if thats bothering the environmentalist, LOL.

Now, on top of this, O2s will be different in a Texas summer versus a Canadian winter. Because of the much colder winter air, I can get away with running a much leaner (lower O2 readings) in the winter than the summer. Taking my car as an example (Supercharged (or turbocharged) cars with an aftermarket cam) I say that 920-935 O2s are good. In the winter, on the same car, I could easily go down to approximately 915-925 without any increase in KR. If you live in a hotter climate, you may need to add 10% to the O2 numbers that I suggest. These are approximate O2 numbers and nothing is set in concrete... your car, tune and KR numbers will ultimately dictate what A/F ratio your car runs best at.

I have a question about this statement.

Wouldn't you want to run a little leaner in the summer and richer in the winter as colder air is more dense than warm air.
Cold Air = More Oxygen which = more required fuel (richer)
Hot Air = Less Oxygen which = Less required fuel (leaner)

Originally Posted by japslpr

I have a question about this statement.

Wouldn't you want to run a little leaner in the summer and richer in the winter as colder air is more dense than warm air.
Cold Air = More Oxygen which = more required fuel (richer)
Hot Air = Less Oxygen which = Less required fuel (leaner)

I thought the same as you Jae. That's the reason it's so easier to chip a piston on a real cold day in the winter.