Thread: Project LQ4 - V8 S10 - Sold.

Idk, maybe I've been in the cold for too long and it's made me more affectionate towards sources of heat...

I really love my block heater. Lol



Turbo all the things!

I had 20 minutes to kill before dinner. Threw the ends on the hose and screwed them on to the cooler adapter block. Looks like everything will clear.



I should be able to modify the original cooler line support bracket to secure the lines. I'm sure I'll use some zip ties as well.

Got my $13 core plug today. Part number in picture.



Also got the vacuum port for the intake. Donor truck had Hydroboost so the intake manifold just had a plug. Fingers crossed, it won't hit the firewall. For $8, I rolled the dice.



Back to the plug... I wanted to get it put in ASAP, but didn't have a 17mm allen handy so I improvised.





It's close, but it should work. I like it!

Motor is back in. Cooler lines and oil pressure sender are attached. Everything clears, but it's close. Next step is seeing if I can get the trans in from the bottom separately, or if they have to go in together from the top.

My hours have gone through the roof recently, so not much time to play with this. I did manage to get the transmission under the truck. I'm hoping I'll be able to use a motorcycle lift to raise it up. Should be an interesting little ballet of raising the trans and lowering the truck to get it all to line up.

I got the transmission installed. Good grief that thing is heavy. Especially when it's on the ground and you're on your back. Took me a half hour just to get it off the floor and onto the lift.



Once I got it high enough, it just kind of slid into place and fell together. I was surprised how easy that part went.



It's a beast.



Probably end up running AN lines for the cooler. No way the factory steel lines are going to snake through there anymore.

getting there. ive been there in my youth, i installed a th400 on my back with out even a normal jack, i pulled the tranny on my chest and pressed it up and in. i was under paid for that job lol

Originally Posted by BrandonHall10

Motor is back in. Cooler lines and oil pressure sender are attached. Everything clears, but it's close. Next step is seeing if I can get the trans in from the bottom separately, or if they have to go in together from the top.

I missed this post! Looks right at home and mighty spiff to me.

I suspect a test fire in the near future...

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

getting there. ive been there in my youth, i installed a th400 on my back with out even a normal jack, i pulled the tranny on my chest and pressed it up and in. i was under paid for that job lol

Ha! There was none of that junk going on. I couldn't even lift the tail end up on to the jack. It was all done using the simple machines we learned about in elementary school. Levers and inclined planes.

Originally Posted by idrivejunk

I missed this post! Looks right at home and mighty spiff to me.

Thanks! I'm hoping to have some more pics with the accessories on in the near future.

Power steering lines connected, torque convertor bolts in, flywheel inspection cover on, right header clearanced and installed, and started working on the shift linkage. I'm going to have to get creative. Going to involve some cutting and welding. Fortunately, it looks like the stroke it the same between the old 60e and new 80e. Just under 2-3/4".

What I learned today... Put the #8 plug wire on the plug before putting the header in.

Also dropped a 16mm box end wrench on my temple. It still hurts.

Originally Posted by WarStryker13

I suspect a test fire in the near future...

Ha! It's going to be a while. Still have to tackle the wiring harness.

Think I have the shift linkage figured out. Using the modified 60e bracket, 60e cable, 60e arm, and 80e MLPS.



I chopped the dog-leg off the 60e bracket, and moved the remaining hole about 5/16". I'll weld on some angle to give it more structure and to get another screw hole, but the geometry is right. Hits all the gears and drops into park.

The 60e that I pulled out of this truck just sold for $500. That, plus selling the engine for $200 puts the cost of this truck at $300.

Shifter bracket finished. Feels good to row through the gears again!





Full disclosure... I had kind of a derp moment. I didn't realize the linkage was adjustable until AFTER I ground the hole oblong. Knowing that, I had to fill my grind job with weld and re-drill.

I'm sure you've looked into it, but I'm curious as to whether the s10 BCM will interface properly with the LQ4 PCM, or if it's going to need finagled...

Sent from a broken phone.

Originally Posted by WarStryker13

...I'm curious as to whether the s10 BCM will interface properly with the LQ4 PCM...

What BCM?

I tossed the intake on and torqued it down. Hooked up the throttle cable, mashed the gas pedal and made childish engine noises. Started working out the fuel lines. Hard as I tried, I didn't see any way the factory hard lines were going to snake through there. Ordered up $160 worth of -6an hose and fittings. I will retain all factory push lock ends and (hopefully) the vent line.

I think everyone likes interior lights, especially when it's dark outside...

And unless I'm thinking of a different truck, the instrument cluster is fed info and power from the BCM.

I know there's not much to control with the BCM in that specific truck, but interior lights make everything better at night. Lol

Originally Posted by WarStryker13

I think everyone likes interior lights, especially when it's dark outside...

And unless I'm thinking of a different truck, the instrument cluster is fed info and power from the BCM.

I know there's not much to control with the BCM in that specific truck, but interior lights make everything better at night. Lol

No, I literally mean, what BCM? As in, this truck doesn't have one. Ha! No fancy timed dim, no security, no remote entry/lock. Interior lights are controlled by a simple door switch, or the headlight switch. IPC is fed directly from the sensors or PCM. The S10's didn't get a BCM till '98 with the design change.

'96 - '97 are a great year for swaps. Old enough to have super simple wiring, but new enough to pass emissions with an OBDII test (as opposed to an actual sniff test on rollers).