Thread: Work junk, and junk... at work. By 'junk.

Found some weatherstrip that I like and tried out these scraps.





Made a roof brace-





Did exploratory surgery on the quarters and rockers-



Theres more but I've been lazy on the '33 pic uploading.

whats that on the needle nose? lead?

Kinda looks like he was just twisting a thin slice of metal with it.

The old patch there was overlapped. See it hanging down? More detailed pics do exist, lol. I carefully cut inside the welds then thinned out the welded edges and yep, peeled it like opening a Spam can. Cleaned up OK there where I peeled. We're getting some new steel but thats 1933 stuff underneath. Not too bad.

Heres the first peeks at my next project-

Still haven't shown the right side wheelhouse fixes but in one of these you can see that right lower qtr area cleaned up.

Bondo IN the rust pits?

Yessir.

Originally Posted by BrandonHall10

Bondo IN the rust pits?

Originally Posted by idrivejunk

Yessir.

Opinions vary wildly on how to treat rust but currently the widely accepted guidelines are this:

Epoxy primer is the only product that can touch the bare or rusted steel in areas that are to be painted with a topcoat and will show.

No rust products are to be used in these areas. Remove rust, apply epoxy primer, thats it.

In other areas, rust products may be used. Epoxy primer is not intended for use over these products.

That being said, you will see in the following examples how I handle pitted ancient steel.

I knock off as much rust as possible and apply rust converter. Then I sand away as much of that as possible, and re-apply. Then I sand away as much as possible by any means available (no spot blaster). Then I blow off and clean with wax and grease remover until rags stop picking up dirt.

Then I apply rust converter.

On my new patches and small areas of less rusty areas, or anywhere that will become inaccessible after patching, I apply self etching primer then engine paint. Then I weld and grind. Then I protect bare steel with self etch to be removed before epoxy primer is applied later.

Here is an example of this process in the right rear wheelwell area of a 1933 Ford 5 window coupe. At the end I was in a hurry to get the wheel back on and did not get a finished pic of the last patch.


























To be continued shortly...

class is in session. listen up!!! lol

I'd do Mr Kotter's ol lady lol. But school is out.... dismissed for today anyhow. Questions before we go?

and some of that tuna casserole

Dayum! Uh-huh.

She was hot. The yellow one is looking good too, lotsa her goodies are falling into place daily-

im all out of words for your shops work.

Right on, preesh. It takes all of us with our little specialties to crank these things out solid and constantly but guess what... the shop has been in business about a decade and right now we have more work than ever before. Adding the storage building was a savvy boss move, it enables a steadier control of flow. They can bring 'em when ready and iron is hot, and we work them in when we are ready. So far, so good. This car actually does have many cool details. It will be an eyeful when all done and spiffed.

it all falls on you body guys first tho, then the rest of em get to rub all over your work lol

It is nice to be settled in and jammin on metal work all the time now, and with boss, put-together dude, and painter as my good friends we have a trust built up. Helps on the fancy builds a lot and saves the shop costly headaches. Of course theres the rest of the crew too but us core four understand one another.

But you're right, they are all just fondling my body junk lol.

This next thing might require further explanation but I'm gaining tire clearance on the '33. Making the wheelwell's vertical walls flush with the frame rails. I know, thats a big chop! I ain't a-feared. Looking forward to the rest of this task, its all planned in my head and I'm using cool fab tools.