OUCH! is all.
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Feed him some vitamin C and hope he's a fast healer.
Don't stop posting pics, this is about the first thread I peek at when I have time to log in.
Agree with Scotty, those wheels were not chosen by either of us.
Hey there Bill. They say he'll have an external rod and if he don't mess that up he may not need a plate just the pins they did. I shoulda ran over there to see him today but he's recovering from surgery and will be in a couple more days. He wrecked Friday.
I'll keep the junk flow on. Sometimes I get concerned about sanity. Y'know.
With the level of work you do.. we know a lot about your sanity or lack of lol. Keep up the great work, I think you are about to start working a bunch more.
This morning I couldn't see my way clear to start on the other side with un-done metal work remaining on the first. So I tackled that today and now I can move on.
Green tape helps me see the gap better.
I decided this was gonna need help on both sides. Started with the door which had a crack below the body line anyway. Also decided that handle area would need some touch ups.
Thats TIG rod on the door already bent to shape and welded on the backside. And yep, shaving that cowl hole also.
Better but still a big mismatch. Never fear. I love to chop.
Yep I just whittled a sliver of metal for that gap. What I did was slip the tip of my light slapping spoon in the cut and tap the edge back using a hammer on spoon. Did it with door shut until satisfactory then whittled the sliver to fit.
Notice I have not cut on the corner but the face of the panel. This aids me in retaining the original radius. It turns out so nice that way-
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ballin
Dottin.lol
I'm so thankful for these threads, I learn so much about how to fix body problems and it's just simple fixes that look good and work great...
Keep up the good work... Even though you're doing two people's, or more, worth of work, it's giving me inspiration to pursue a similar career.
Stuff just gets easier after awhile I reckon. Prime example: Backtrack here and see how long it took to mount the driver's door. I had this one hung on new hinges by lunch today starting from scratch! I even made the latch pillar patch and have it sorta tacked in. Its fun work if you don't mind sparks and most of it is done using just a handful of tools.
Rinse, repeat:
That pic shows something learned at practice. When you trim the pockets, the nut plate retainer falls off. So I tacked it farther back.
Yeah that door isn't shut because my pillar patch for the new striker is tacked but not yet trimmed. This door doesn't have the same gap problem as bad but has one or two different areas of conflict. I won't bore you with abundant details on this side but will show any gap fixes. As you see, I left the old hinges hanging and just sawzall'ed the pillar wood and metal all at once so I could say I had this door on by lunch.
If theres a juicy cut of meat in this thread, its the next three paragraphs-
My tube assembly only needed one cut and re-tack and its all good so far. The hinge pockets are 15 3/4" apart on the brace and if you're doing this at home, cut right through the outer screw hole on the old lower hinge mount, and put the upper tube's outer top corner pointing at that screw by the marked silver box in the pic. Stay just inside the skin's edge.
Rotate hinge assembly until lower hinge pin nut is 1/8" from the quarter skin and almost against the inner pillar, and top hinge allows full closing. Leave just enough room for lower pin removal. You'll have one bolt hole left on the wood bracket inside the quarter and the upper hinge pin goes behind that. The upper tube will be recessed slightly from the face of the pillar and the tube brace and tubes will be tilted outward at the top. Tack tubes then hold door up and mark hinge location for pocket cutouts.
Mount the pockets only about as deep as the hinge is thick. It doesn't have to be flush with the door shell and the limiting factor is the window travel. Keep the nut plate backside even with the window track and it should clear although its possible channel trimming may be necessary. Bolts should be trimmed to a length as to be flush with the nut plate backside when installed. Simple, really!
Owner of this was in today also. He asked if this side was going faster than the other and since I anticipated the question days ago I was able to reply positively and without hesitation. Because its going much faster. Still a lot of work but all right half of brain this time. Just doing, not figuring much.
Zapped up the new striker area and moved on to the door today-
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