Thread: HOW?

ok. My temp gauge for exterior said -20* outside tonight... not factoring in windchill.

when you breathe through your nose..... it will freeze shut.......


Instead of starting halfway through the first crank, it takes it 5 cranks to get it to go, and then my Tranny whines louder than the blower. and the car will NOT warm up.

I have to beat on it a bit just so I know the temp gauge works, and gets past 160*. but when I drive it, it cools down.... and when it idles..... it cools down.

this weather sucks..... with wind chill they are saying it is suppose to be -45.....

the only thing I could think about tonight at work was how the heck do the people in the artic drive around? the oil has to be water!!!!!!!!

then about those Ice road truckers.... If they fall through the ice... they are stuck in worse weather than this.... YIKES!!!!

battery went dead on our GP this morning trying to start up... cranked and cranked and cranked.. for about five mins, then just died.. finally had to go get a jump from a local shop... once we got started, it ran fine, and warmed up good, but it was just getting it started..

it was -22º last night with a -21º wind chill. tomorrow (today but later) its suppose to get up to like 15

my car didnt get warm on the way to work either. it stayed barely above the 160 line.

it is TOO COLD OUT!

finally getting warmer here in SD...was down to pry -30 maybe even lower in the past few days...right now its up to about 2 degrees

Originally Posted by UR LOSN

the only thing I could think about tonight at work was how the heck do the people in the artic drive around? the oil has to be water!!!!!!!!

then about those Ice road truckers.... If they fall through the ice... they are stuck in worse weather than this.... YIKES!!!!

Actually, the oil thickens and is much much harder to pump in those temperatures. Even at 40 below, synthetics suffer unless its a high quality synthetic in which case they will typically flow okay down to 60 below.

In extreme cold climates they will block of part or all of the radiator and in diesel applications they'll use additives in the fuel to keep it from gelling and of course they wont shut the engine off unless its just unavoidable.

In those temps its best to have a block warmer, battery warmer and block off most of the air flow to the radiator.

One trick you can try to see if it will help start in the mornings or when you first start the car for the day or after it has sat in those temps for long periods of time is to turn on your headlights before trying to start the car. That gets current flowing and warms up the battery some and makes it easier to start the car.

open cone FTW!

I was thinking about blocking off my radiator with cardboard.... but it is just too dang cold to even want to go outside.....

I gotta hand it to my OEM battery from 2000.... it's still alive and kicking. I think I just jinxed myself with that one...

It got up to 10 today. I had to fill my rad after my LIM gasket install a few days ago out side when it was -30 before wind chill. It sucked. I am glade I park in a garage.

yeah, now we have more snow!!!

Just a helpful suggestion to you all, make sure to get a antifreeze tester and check your coolant/antifreeze. If you don't check it and it is weak, it will freeze and cause big problems in your engines (cracking radiators, engine blocks and pushing out frost plugs and so on).

Weak = more water then antifreeze/coolant in the system.

A 50/50 mix is good to about -34 before it will freeze.
A 60/40 mix is good to about -62 before it will freeze.
A 70/30 mix is good to about -84 before it will freeze.

Note: a 70/30 mix is the highest concentration mix that is recommended. Pure Antifreeze will "jell" up at warmer temps. Warmer temps = about -5 or lower.

Here is a link to a chart you can use if needed: http://www.peakantifreeze.com/images...tion_chart.jpg

^^^^ That is good to know!

so running straight water, although great at the drag strip in a full out drag car, is not good for daily driving in winter!

THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
















sorry, I was joking! a fellow car guy here ran staright water.... needless to say his freeze plugs blew out faster than Oprahs buttons on her vest. I still give him crap about it!

FWIW, the ICM is designed in our cars to cut the fuel after 20 seconds of cranking without starting, so dont turn it over for more than 15 seconds at a time trying to start in super cold conditions.

Oh Really? Where did you find this at?

^^ X2....this is new info to me!!

FWIW the reason why you're car took 5 cranks to start is more than likley the Start up AFR needs to be INcreased. You need more fuel during startup when it's cold.