Thread: 2000 Ford Explorer shuddering/vibration

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  1. #1 2000 Ford Explorer shuddering/vibration 
    GTP Level Member FriboRage's Avatar
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    So it's been awhile since I've been around, I'm in a lull one irking on my comp g and I'm trying to keep it garaged for the winter so it sees as little salt as possible.

    My old 95 explorer was rusting away, so I invested in a newer, great condition 2000 4wd explorer as a winter vehicle. It's almost rust free and the underbody is beautiful, interior is nearly pristine.

    Ive had it a few months now, and about a week ago it developed this shudder/vibration. It only appears around 25-30mph, and slowly intensifies from there, but only under acceleration.

    Say I'm speeding up to get on the interstate, it vibrates and shudders like I'm driving on the rumble strips on the shoulder, at 60mph it's pretty heavy with my foot on the gas, but then I take my foot off the pedal, so now I'm just coasting, no pedal, at 60 and it instantly goes smooth as butter. Put my foot back into the throttle and the vibration comes right back. So it's not tied to speed but load.

    3 people told me to get the tires balanced, but I think that's stupid cause it would vibrate all the time, not just under throttle. I was thinking about a u-joint. I'm not that familiar with rwd and 4wd systems cause 95% of my experience is in my gp.

    opinions?
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    2004 Grand Prix GTP Comp G: Intake, F+R plogs + downpipe, 1.7 YT Rollers, Overkill, F-body front brakes, drilled/slotted r1 concept rotors.
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  2. #2 Re: 2000 Ford Explorer shuddering/vibration 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    sounds like a U joint, or a cv joint gone bad to me.

    to check the u joints you can get under it trans in N then turn the drive shaft back and fourth by the rear watching for play in the u joint, as well as the by the t case. same for the front drive shaft.

    you can also put the truck in low gear, get it up to say 25 mph then let of the gas and back on the gas, if the u joints are bad you'll hear and feel a good clunk.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  3. #3 Re: 2000 Ford Explorer shuddering/vibration 
    Donating Users timboku's Avatar
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    U joint or sure. Had same issue on my 01 explorer. Go under car and grab drive shaft. Shake it and you should be able to see.the.pay in it.
    2002 GTP..DD.. Topswapped Gen V L26, XP cam, Full Size IC, E85, 2.6 Pulley,SD Headers, K&N Intake, N*/Lq4,FP Rewire, TEP Trans, F body Fronts, GXP Rear Brakes, LE Spoiler, AGXs with vogtland springs, bonni gxp rims, Timboku Tuned
    1995 Cutlass Supreme Convertible...Soon to be L32Swapped.....2005 GXP Stock
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  4. #4 Re: 2000 Ford Explorer shuddering/vibration 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    To me it sounds broke, you should fix it.

    SMGPFC Member #1
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  5. #5 Re: 2000 Ford Explorer shuddering/vibration 
    GTP Level Member FriboRage's Avatar
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    Any secrets to disconnecting this drive shaft? I've got all 4 bolts out that hold the yoke to the rear diff... I have it all sprayed up and I've been hammering on the edges for almost an hour... doesnt wanna break loose. I wanna drop it down so I can work on the u joints on the bench.

    Starting to wonder if it's really just rusted on, or if there's something I missed to bust it loose.
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  6. #6 Re: 2000 Ford Explorer shuddering/vibration 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    so the end caps are stuck in the yolk? if so put a screw driver under the U joint between the yolk and U joint, and pry it out, you cant hurt anything.

    if the front side is a spline shaft have a pan under it when you pull the shaft out, it may leak trans fluid out the back of the t case.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  7. #7 Re: 2000 Ford Explorer shuddering/vibration 
    I live here. Slick2500's Avatar
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    BFH?
    2003 Redfire Metallic Chevy Tahoe Z71 - Airaid Modular Intake Tube, Flowmaster Exhaust.
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  8. #8 Re: 2000 Ford Explorer shuddering/vibration 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    nahhhh, you dont want to dent it, its balanced.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  9. #9 Re: 2000 Ford Explorer shuddering/vibration 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    I use a big pry bar to pop the u-joint out of the rear yoke.

    SMGPFC Member #1
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  10. #10 Re: 2000 Ford Explorer shuddering/vibration 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    a install tip for ya, tape the two free end caps on when your pounding the caps in the shaft. nothing worse then one of them needle bearings coming out if the cap falls off and pops em free.

    make sure the needles in the two caps you need to remove are in place as the u joint is put back into them. a press makes this a easy job, the pound em in method kinda blows some times. dont pound/press them in to deep either or the cap will crack. copy how they are now.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  11. #11 Re: 2000 Ford Explorer shuddering/vibration 
    GTP Level Member FriboRage's Avatar
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    They're not held in with straps, they're pressed in both sides.

    The u joint is pressed into here


    Which is the bolted onto here:


    Which goes into the rear to form this assembly:



    The problem I was having was, after the 12pt bolts you see in the 3rd pic were out, getting part A separated from part B.. but yeah it was just rust cause I took a crowbar to it and it popped off with some force.

    Took the whole shaft down, popped the clips out, pressed the joint out of both the yoke and the shaft, pressed the new ones in on both ends, replaced clips.. all done...

    Then I sheared off one of the grease fittings in one of the joints cause I went a little crazy tightening them in

    Oh well, at least the hard part is over. I called it a night, but if I cant spin the remains out tomorrow I'll just grab another one for $15 I guess. The advice for the straps will come in handy for the front though... the front drive shaft u joints are held in that way... so I'll keep that in mind. Thanks for all the help.
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    2004 Grand Prix GTP Comp G: Intake, F+R plogs + downpipe, 1.7 YT Rollers, Overkill, F-body front brakes, drilled/slotted r1 concept rotors.
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  12. #12 Re: 2000 Ford Explorer shuddering/vibration 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    leave it to ford to be messed up like that.

    if thats your pic, the rear is leaking, it needs a new seal behind the yolk there,

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  13. #13 Re: 2000 Ford Explorer shuddering/vibration 
    GrandPrix Junkie
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    Hit it with a BFH...it'll pop loose.
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  14. #14 Re: 2000 Ford Explorer shuddering/vibration 
    Donating Users Bronco Boy's Avatar
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    What t/case do you have? 4x4 or AWD? The AWD Exploders are notorious for vibrations.
    Chris B
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