Thread: Project Rotor Tiller

So some of you have seen my little side project. But for those of u that haven't....here it is. (Videos click link to watch)
http://s1272.photobucket.com/user/ma...836aa.mp4.html

To begin with. This thing for its age is in pristine condition (except for the 10 pounds of dirt and grease I cleaned off it today). Next to no rust because off all the grease and dirt. Only rust is a very little bit on handle bars. But that's getting taken care of.
Some pics.








So far all I've done is drain the oil and clean the thing. Still have a lot more cleaning to do but ran out of supplies.

At the moment I found new tires for it.
Still need. Make an after market air filter as the stock one is ****. Will post more pics I'm the morning.
Also going to ace the helpful place to get springs. Going to replace every spring on it. Some where held on with fencing wire because the springs rusted.
Would like to replace the muffler but I'm sure finding a replacement will be impossible. The one that's on it now is the factory one and if u didn't see it wouldn't even know it was there. But hey. Lots more pics coming in the morning.

And here's some pics of the carb. I got it mostly taken apart. But still needs a lot of cleaning.





And here's some detailed schematics of it I found online.

And it still runs like a freaking champ. Moves dirt better than any new tiller now a days does.

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More pics.


And here's the oil I'll be running in it.


Also found a site that sells most of the parts for it. So gonna order a new coil pack and piece on front that spins and generates power. Also already ordered all new seals for the rotors as their leaking. And damn old ass diff fluid stinks terribly

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before you take the coil off, check what gap its at when the iron parts from the flywheel are under it. thats the coil gap. back when a business card was thick you could just use that, but not no more.

Already done. It has clean circles where the bolts were. I took pics and made marks on it. I got to get a pulley puller from my storage unit to remove the flywheel though.

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the new one may not gap the same. since you took it off but marked it. slap it back on and check the gap to be safe.

its the engines ignition timing so it kinda needs to be damn close.

Yea true. Honestly that's probably the most complicated thing on this.

I do have some questions on some other things. I'll post pics of em later.

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pretty sure you want to change the seal on the crank shaft? if i read that right. once you take the side cover off you'll see the cam. and its gear. its so simple inside. that black cover with the rubber tube to the carb, thats where the valves stems pass through, its like a pcv.

Funny u just answered a question I had lol. About the black cover. I removed it and there's two springs inside. But the seal I'm wanting to replace is on the shaft that spins the rotors to move dirt. I've got more pics I just need to upload them to show ya.

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Seal # 13


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And best part....those seals are 5.95. So two. One for each side

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Originally Posted by DirtDog

Seal # 13


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so its the auger diff your talking about. never really dove into one. cant be to bad, you got a diagram to follow at least.

Yea this this is easy to take apart. And honestly I dunno why a second belt. I've only had one on it and I've owned it for 10 years. Works better than any new tiller I've used in the garden. And HP. It is 1237whp

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less belt slippage is why two belts.

looks like a 3 hp to me. maybe 3.5

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

less belt slippage is why two belts.

looks like a 3 hp to me. maybe 3.5

Honestly current belt has no slip. But it's cracked badly. A new one is in store.
And looks like 3hp
Roticul 3HP Deluxe Walk-Behind Tiller

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the two belt just keep it turning strong in tough soil. if your soil is rather free already one belt will do.

those pulleys do wear out too. if the belt is touching the very middle part of the pulley, the pulleys worn, the belt should be running in the V groove, not bottomed out in the pulleys. you can spray paint the pulleys, then run them. if the paint is gone down deep the pulleys bad.

Yea they probably need replacing lol.
What kinda fluid would u use in the auger gear area.

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ask your parts store guy your going to. most of the old stuff uses good old 90 weight gear oil. like for a gm rwd diff. the mower shop may have smaller cheaper bottles tho.