i would go with what scotty said.....
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i would go with what scotty said.....
What ever I drained out was some sort of thick diff fluid. Smelled just like it. That rotten smell lol
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ever change snout oil?
Yes. This smells worse.
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best to just ask the mower shop. that guy will know what it needs for sure.
Took the carb apart to start cleaning it up some. So simple.
http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9eii30sm.jpg
http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/...psov1j6wfy.jpg
http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/...psar57coes.jpg
http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/...pslvxbiew7.jpg
And found out where the leak is. Here's the good side.
http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/...ps04eordkh.jpg
Leaking side.
http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/...pspmqwok0a.jpg
All the pieces I gotta clean and repaint.
http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/...psmlwf8nw8.jpg
http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/...psveajfrt2.jpg
http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/...psbzfpsy6p.jpg
Also gonna return the motor oil I got....found what what it calls for.
http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/...psdksokrzx.jpg
Also need a new pull cord assembly.
http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/...psq8ia5irh.jpg
And how the engine sits for now.
http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/...psjt6e3smh.jpg
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now that you got the carb open, theres a pin at the back of the round float, you can push that pin out and the float will come off, under the float is the jet, its clipped to the float near that pin/hinge. take the jet out and spray up that hole clean the jet tip too.
if theres turn screws with springs, turn them in counting the turns, so you know how far to set them when it goes back together, and blow out those holes too, clean the tips of those jet screws too.
when it goes back together make sure the float and jet are hooked up.
Thanks for that info. I'd like to clean the choke to but can't figure out how to get that apart. Sadly for the screws with springs I'm not worried about that at the moment cause it needs some adjusting anyways. Was having problems staying running at low idle last time it was on. I played with the carb some then and got it where it'd idle decently.
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the choke id just spray with the body of the carb, its just a flap to cut of incoming air.
the bottom jet screw is the high speed jet. when at full throttle you turn it un till it leans out, then back it back out till its to rich, you'll hear it, then turn back in til you hear it peek out, aka that fat spot.
same for the other screw on the side, only at idle you work that screw, stop where its running strong at idle and goes right to full throttle from idle. if it bogs you need to play a bit more.
welcome to old school tuning lol
Yea. So simple tuning lol. Any ideas for how to clean the inside of the fuel tank and reline it with something? I have a walnut shell blaster. I'm going to use brake lines as the fuel line cause I can't find metal replacement fuel lines. It needs all new fuel lines including the fuel on off knobs. Leaks bad being their still the original fuel lines.
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the mower shop can help with lines and on/off valves.
once the tanks rust its kinda always been a game ender for me. as they will rust again, then clog up the carb. adding a in line filters a good idea if you try blasting it and reusing it. id add the filter anyways. its good to have.
new thought* maybe that new wd-40 rust remover cleaner/preventative would work well for this?
Hmmm. I'll see if parts site has a new tank. Might be worth it to replace it if I can.
And I need to find a local mower shop. Time to Google.
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idk how original looking you want it, but plastic tanks are the way to go. im sure you could bolt one on the same way the metal one does. the style has not changed much on the little engines, edgers and snow blowers still have that type tank. but plastic. they sell in line on/off valves too.
I'm trying to keep it original looking. But may have to settle on gas tank. For the paint on the handles and all I have a good paint shop going to make stencils of the lettering (brand name and all) and the color match the original color. And I'm doing all the prep work my self
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If you cn find a radiator shop, they can also clean gas tanks. might be able to get it done cheap since it's small.
By radiator shop what exactly does that mean. I've never seen a radiator shop except actual gaurages.
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man kid you dont deal with pre war cars lol its fun getting a custom radiator built
It's a shop that deals with building custom rads/tanks, repairing old ones, cleaning, etc.. I have a good one here that has served me well over the years. Had several rads with repaired tubes, resoldered side tanks, etc. A lot of times they will be able to restore old fuel tanks as well as radiators.Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtDog
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^^^ I've actually looked at that stuff before but still need to figure out a way to clean the insides. Tank it's self doesn't have a leak. But the fuel lines do. Alright got replacement fuel lines though.
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