Printable View
cool, mud rules lol
the trick to driving it, at least its what worked for me, you need to put your head in the car, aka like your in it and steering it. cause when its coming back at ya, oh boy, confusion sets in and crash lol
its when you dont have to think about driving it any more that it becomes real fun.
My main deal was trying to get it not spin cookies on the pavement lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyDoggs
thats called the first day and pushing it to its limits in a act of fun and glory lol
My charger needs to hurry up and get here, these 9 hour charge times are killing me.
Eek, 9 hours. Wow, an aftermarket charger and battery with higher capacity will typically charge in 1 hour. A123's I charge in 15 minutes.
Jeff
The charger they included is only does 100 millamps per hour. I bought one of these bad boys should be here on Tuesday http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Univer.../dp/B003MXMJX8
That should work much better for you. What capacity battery do you have? Something about 4,500 mah will run for a long time probably 20 minutes or more. Should be able to find some pretty cheap. Last time I bought some 4500 Duratrax from Tower hobbies for about $20.
Edit: never mind won't fit 1/18th.
Car came with a 900 mah battery. The largest battery that will fit in that car is a Dynamite 1471 1750 mah and they are ~$26 or I can get a Dynamite 1473 1200 mah for ~$18
Just been looking into getting my own nitro truck. This isn't helping me hold off lol. Do you guys have any suggestions for a lower priced nitro? Don't want to spend to much on my first one. I currently have a nitro plane and have had many electric cars and quads so I'm not a total noob.
Look on nitrorcx they have some 1/8th scale ones for about $300 http://www.nitrorcx.com/52c62-madfir...cee-24ghz.html
The 1/10 scale ones are about $170
Sent from A Galaxy Far Far Away
Broke my first part today =(
Hit a pot hole and it sumersaulted a good 5-6 feet.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07...3915487478.jpg
Sent from A Galaxy Far Far Away
get used to that crap lol if the plastic dint break you can push the U joint back in there, unless its gone lol
wow edit: just noticed the metal stem sitting there , yup, busted it lol
I'm just baffled at how the metal broke but none of the plastic stuff.
china???? ive ripped the dog bones apart but never broke the u joint stem off. always was able to put them back together, a little tape wrapped around the bone ends held them from spreading open and coming apart.
but still chinese plastic.
I hate to say I told you, but.... order extra parts. I changed out my dogbones and axles to HPI on my Rustler because even putting a metal sleeve on the outer axle it still broke I still break them I had one dogbone that was twisted in half from launching too hard too many times. Take stock of what your truck uses and order extra A-arms and the hardware, axles all the way around and anything else driveline related.
Some of those little U-joints have a pin pressed through one end so you may get lucky and be able to drive it out and then put another pin in it. Even if it's only a nail, it should hold you until you get the parts in.
Jeff
1/18 scale fail, parts are like twigs
A spare battery or two can be your best friends. :th_biggrin2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Slick2500
Going to be doing some upgrades to the Ruckus.
Aluminum shocks http://www.ebay.com/itm/261854751153
Steel cv shafts. http://www.ebay.com/itm/261974830872
Undecided on the battery I can get a 1200 mah battery for $15 or a 1750 for $26
Get extra shafts if you can, they bend. Go for the largest battery you can afford and is compatible with your charger. If you could go Lipo then it would drop the pack weight by over half and run time will be increased. The problem is you have to have a Lipo cutoff or warning.
Jeff