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  1. #1 Re: honda brake job 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    ok i can breath again lol sounds like a normal brake job. never know till its on a jack.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  2. #2 Re: honda brake job 
    GT Level Member Tea Time's Avatar
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    lol...no one said they weren't goin to strip once ur into the project..lol


    just razzin ya!




















    OK...SERIOUSLY, THATS NOT FUNNY AND I PROBABLY SHOULDN'T HAVE SAID IT.

    '00 GTP - Summer Toy
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  3. #3 Re: honda brake job 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    its funny cause its true lol

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  4. #4 Re: honda brake job 
    GT Level Member Tea Time's Avatar
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    i wont be held accountable if anything strips and / or breaks on this project...

    '00 GTP - Summer Toy
    '97 GTP - Project
    '99 GT - Gone (Frame Rotted)
    '98 SE - Gone (Parts Car)
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  5. #5 Re: honda brake job 
    GT Level Member RegalGS98s's Avatar
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    I have a little too much experience with Honda's as I replaced literally every part including the Engine and Transmission except the Unibody of the vehicle on my 95 Accord. 94-97 the front brake rotors are behind the bearing hub which makes it a pain the first time you experience it, but now I do it pretty quick with extended bolts and an air chisel. For 99 the rotors would be normal except Honda decided to put 2 phillips head screws on the rotors. You need heat from a propane torch and an impact hammer. I use this one Impact Screwdriver Set with Case If you strip the threads you'll need to drill them out. I usually break the Phillips bits in the set and have to turn it in for the lifetime warranty by the end of the job. I didn't have any propane so I got one screw out on each side, but then had to drill out the other 2. I forget for 99, but if you're replacing the rear rotors, they have the Phillips screws in the 94-97 with rear discs. The calipers for the rear are screw in and the fronts are regular push in. For my rear caliper screw ins, I use this: 18 Piece Disc Brake Pad and Caliper Service Tool Kit (They have stores in NJ and I always use their coupons) You can usually just screw them in with needle nose pliers, but I had to use that tool as the rear brake line was shot and the one caliper was frozen. After I broke it loose, it works good now.

    So, recommended tools besides the usual:
    Impact screwdriver
    Propane torch
    Disc brake pad and caliper service tool kit
    SMGPFC #0330 - 3.25, Intercooled, Custom Tune, 1.84rr, LS6 Springs, roller timing chain, SLP Headers, Borla Exhaust, built Trans, B&M Trans Cooler, home cut poly uppers, gapless rings, N* TB, Ported heads.
    Soontocome: CAM?, Custom modified M112, home poured Poly Engine and Trans mounts
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  6. #6 Re: honda brake job 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    so what if i have to drill these Philips head screws out? do they need to be replace or do i just slap on the rotors like a normal car?

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  7. #7 Re: honda brake job 
    GT Level Member RegalGS98s's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottydoggs View Post
    so what if i have to drill these Philips head screws out? do they need to be replace or do i just slap on the rotors like a normal car?
    Sorry, I knew I forgot something. Everybody I know including me throws them away. They're basically there to line up the rotor without the wheel on. When you torque the wheel back on, they'll be like any other set of rotors.

    O and one more tool, a 2-4 lb sledge hammer for the impact screw driver.
    Last edited by RegalGS98s; 06-01-2011 at 06:37 PM.
    SMGPFC #0330 - 3.25, Intercooled, Custom Tune, 1.84rr, LS6 Springs, roller timing chain, SLP Headers, Borla Exhaust, built Trans, B&M Trans Cooler, home cut poly uppers, gapless rings, N* TB, Ported heads.
    Soontocome: CAM?, Custom modified M112, home poured Poly Engine and Trans mounts
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  8. #8 Re: honda brake job 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    thanks for the info, damn foreign cars.

    twist in calipers, never knew that, could have been a fun time fvcking them up lol i appreciate that heads up.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  9. #9 Re: honda brake job 
    GT Level Member RegalGS98s's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottydoggs View Post
    thanks for the info, damn foreign cars.

    twist in calipers, never knew that, could have been a fun time fvcking them up lol i appreciate that heads up.
    NP, I hate working on them, but I know a bit about them. Only the rear calipers are twist in. I think because of the emergency brake.

    I'm always saying f*ing Honda, f*ing Honda. But Nissan is probably the worst because everything is designed to be so cramped. Sister's boyfriend has 2 300 ZX's. One of them the twin turbo. They're always fun to work on when he asks for a hand
    SMGPFC #0330 - 3.25, Intercooled, Custom Tune, 1.84rr, LS6 Springs, roller timing chain, SLP Headers, Borla Exhaust, built Trans, B&M Trans Cooler, home cut poly uppers, gapless rings, N* TB, Ported heads.
    Soontocome: CAM?, Custom modified M112, home poured Poly Engine and Trans mounts
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