its normal threads, try driving the car around for a bit so its good and hot, then try to break it free while its hot.
most o2's come with some anti seize paste, maybe he failed to use it?
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its normal threads, try driving the car around for a bit so its good and hot, then try to break it free while its hot.
most o2's come with some anti seize paste, maybe he failed to use it?
Hopefully that will do it. Otherwise would a shop put in a defouler or is it illegal for this purpose?
Is it true that you must drive the car between 100 and 200 miles after resetting the CEL before taking to inspection?
The thing that sucks is there are cops all over my town so I have to drive the car at night where hopefully the overdue sticker won’t be noticed.
why not go and fail, dont ya get 30 days to fix whatever you failed for? how new jerkme works.
and yes it can take a day or so of driving and drive cycles to become ready, best to have a scanner that shows "im readiness" when everything shows "ready" go right to inspection. the T app shows this readiness deal.
Scotty
Do they have that app for iPhones?
not the torque app. but theres others that will work with a potato.
for real, just go and fail if it fails, then you got 30 days to get it fixed. they just slap a red rejected sticker on top of the old sticker, cops wont bother you at all.
round here inspection sticker is like a $300 fine. so failing is safe to drive on for 30 days. and free......
most cheap scanners will show readiness too, the free auto zone scanner should also show it. if the light is still off and its been a few days already you just might be good to go. my evap was the one that took the longest to become ready when i had one lol now its the o2 thats takes the longest.....cause its the only real one left lol
what ever you do dont go clearing codes again, then your starting all over again.
The clearing codes thing was my sons idea since it’s his car now. I really want him to just get rid of this thing and get something new but he’s holding onto hope here. Ok. I got this now. Gonna check for readiness as soon as he puts a bit more mileage on it.
I just went out and plugged in my sons code reader and next to “IM readiness” there is a bunch of separate sections. I took a video of it but what section matters most to passing inspection?
It says:
Catalyst mon = INC
Evap System Mon = N/A
EGR System = INC
inc would be incomplete, n/a not available id think. just go fail already so you got the extra 30 days of ticket free driving. it can take a few days of normal driving to make it all set ready, iirc the evap needs to see the fuel in the tank drop to finish its tests.
Thanks for the encouragement Scotty! LOL
Anyone know the bolt size for the cat. converter bolts? I have the back end next to the tailpipe off and also one of the bolts on the front but one bolt keeps slipping off with a 17/32 socket on it. It worked on the other bolt though.
I had same problem I had a battery cable that was not all the way tight it would run every thing but was told if you dont have a complete connection it will trip the cat code found my positive cable to be loose worth a look cat is just bolted on if you need to change it but the 2 bolts to the manifold are tuff to get at good luck
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