It should start faster with that changed
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It should start faster with that changed
My starter and battery sure hope so. I saw little seep marks in the dirt around the old filter seam. Prolly just dripped out slowly onto the intake after shutdown. We'll see.
Well, after a few days it starts a little better, not much. But it also pulls harder when the secondaries open. That caught my attention! Wow, OK yeah might have a little better fuel pressure now, maybe. What a kick in the seat of the pants. I need to replace the other hoses too. And make the choke work ... meh.
I'd love to try bigger secondary jets, its almost certain theres a gain to be had there. She makes beautiful music at the moment though.
Honestly if you want to get all techy about it, toss a wideband in the exhaust to tune with that.
That would really be the best way to get that car running top notch.
Yes it would. Even borrowed just long enough to tweak it.
She can spare a couple notches off the top for free though. Rear jets are one part of the tuning process where a stopwatch can be sufficient with plenty of trial and error in a safe place. Fun, too!
I am almost curious enough to hit the local dyno shop for a baseline and conversational numbers as-is. The setup has remained the same for seven years now with no changes. Tires have to be first, they are a decade old now. Maybe in spring I'll score a pair. Until then, perfect can wait and damn good will do.
Stumbled onto something I think I like as an idea. I'd need to do some photo editing to see. 67 GP tails on the 69. I could make it happen and have never liked the existing tails much. Always thought of using 67 GTO lamps but these... better? I'd probably just make them with LEDs (sigh), in this style.
http://www.carsandracingstuff.com/li...ndprix058t.jpg
Also ran across an old article with some whacko Pontiac concepts and a few 69 GP tidbits. Says the car was designed in a month!
http://www.hotrod.com/cars/featured/...ac-grand-prix/
Tail light reference, don't mind the rust streak:
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps0gtdlgrm.jpg
Are your a holly or a qudrajet I found this for the holly
http://www.jetsrus.com/FAQs/FAQ_reje...lley_carb.html
Neither nor. Edelbrock Performer Series. A 750. I'm it's biggest fan lol. Tuned it best I could with a manual and kit on the 400 but haven't re-tuned on the 455 since it drives so nice. On the 400, I fattened the cruise mode two steps iirc. The step-up springs are critical too. Theres around 100K miles on the carb.
The only Holley I ever had was a basket case and I let it go. Prior to all this though, yes Q-Jet man for twenty odd years. I'm not beyond setting timing with a vacuum gauge in a pinch haha. It has crossed my mind to build up the Q-Jet from the 72 for it. But why?
This is what was on it when I got it... shoulda kept that, huh? Sold it to some local 65 GTO guy. That thing really honked but carbs were too worn out for me to get a stable idle with the overly ambitious cam it had.
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...psimyyie2u.jpg
The edelbrock is based off of the qudrajet with the flow being 800 cfms were the stock qudrajet hitting in at 750 cfms
Q-Jets are spread bore although there was an Eddy re-pop they quit making. Mine is square bore, a #1411. Should still have .107" jets out back. B-O-P Q-Jets can be badass though. Got two intakes for one but both are iron and heavy.
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a.../455dirtyB.jpg
This is a great article about Holley:
http://www.onedirt.com/tech-stories/...or-milestones/
You do know that 90% of the time your running on the front mains. Also the back ones don't open up tell wit and even then it takes 30+ seconds to open up and even at that they only open up 3/4 the way
Yes, front mains are what me and Edelbrock call primary jets. I'd like to try .110 secondary jets. They don't use secondary metering rods like Q-Jets. But I know what you're saying, if its that vacuum secondary carbs will only ask for as much air as is needed. My thought is that when the secondaries are active, I'd like 4% fuel in the mix. Possibly more.
Page 4 has the secondary metering diagram and page 15 has the secondary tuning info: http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...ers-manual.pdf
Ironic that this post should follow that one, ha.
Basic GTP EFI question:
I don't have a way to monitor KR... except a nice fullblown diagnostic tool at work which I do have access to. The kind that does ABS, SIR, test functions and all that like a Tech2 would. I trained on a Tech2 a little back in the day, for dealer stuffs. Anyway, this is a Snap-On and I tried it today and now have this question:
If the KR value on the tool is 0-90, what number of degrees BTDC is 100% of that 90? Like if I have an HEI dizzy that allows 50 degrees maximum advance, and place a knock sensor on the block, and it gives me a 10 on the Snap-On 0-90 scale, that means the sensor indicates 4.5 degrees retard is needed. Follow me? Am I needing to do knock count instead then reference another number?
I realize I'm probably making it difficult right out of the gate, but using this tool costs me nothing.
You-uns take your time figuring that one out, I'm gone to watch something black and white.
FWIW, I noticed that my short term fuel trim hangs near 0 while on the gas hard. That good? lol Can I borrow a clue?
no idea on your knock readings. buy a torque app already lol
stft should go to zero when you floor it, so should the ltft's.
Yeah I knew I'd get the torque suggestion. Need a new phone fer dat. LTFTs weren't 0. I was seeing 2-4 on the tool and wondered what that meant in degrees. But yeah, buy stuff.
you could go with a wide band gauge
pretty sure you can just buy a used or refurbished smart phone and use that. it dont need live service to work. the phone i have cost me like 45 bucks iirc. hydro edge. it takes a good beating too as long as its in a case. its been flying a few times. like off the roof of my car @ 35 mph lol