Thread: Southeast WI 01 GT

Frozen boost sells a fake cat, it looks like a cat buts just a straight pipe if they check for it.

Sent from the Milky Way

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

unless they "look" for the cat, then you can use a hi flow cat and a deleted rear o2 sensor.

frozen boost sells a cat that is 100% free flow, its fake but looks real lol its 40 bucks. nice and cheap.

Originally Posted by Russosaur

Frozen boost sells a fake cat, it looks like a cat buts just a straight pipe if they check for it.

Sent from the Milky Way

didnt i say that already?

Oh I didn't read back that far, too much reading

Sent from the Milky Way

i thought he just stole my line 100% till i re read it lol

Does anyone recall a thread about how to port and polish a supercharger. It had good detailed pictures, saw it a few months ago when I first joined and I've spent the past few nights searching for it but to no avail. I've found some but not the one with really good pictures. I have a friend that works in a machine shop so I want to show it to him and see if he can help me w/ the supercharger on the new engine.

Sent from my Tab3

So to make sure I have all the ducks in a row, here are the plans for the new engine/trans if the purchase goes smoothly this Sunday. Here's the modified plans after being set straight by Scottydoggs and REDCOMPG:
-Cancelled-Replace lifters (I have them from trying to fix blown engine)
-Mod LIM, remove coolant passages, open up coolant passage at the end cap, possibly port the LIM to match the Supercharger
-Port Supercharger, not going crazy here, just going to open it up a little bit, clean up rough edges and polish surfaces. (Pulley change in the future.)
-Replace all gaskets from taking down top end
-180º Thermostat, have this already so swapping it over
-Cancelled-Replace rod bearings, again, I bought these when trying to save the old engine. Never ran them in the engine so I figure I should go ahead and stick them in here. (I know its not as simple as sticking them in there)
-New oil pan and gasket
-Might hold off on this if rest of engine/inspection looks good..Remove timing cover, inspect chain and replace oil pump gears/components, once again, parts I have from trying to rebuild other engine.
-Ordering speed daddy exhaust headers
-Ordered hardened 4th gear shaft and TransGo shift kit
-Tune PCM

This has about maxed out my budget but I'm open to suggestions/ideas. Just for the headers, I'm probably going to have to wait another two weeks to have the funds so there might be a little extra money there for something.

Sent from my Tab3

"-Replace rod bearings, again, I bought these when trying to save the old engine. Never ran them in the engine so I figure I should go ahead and stick them in here. (I know its not as simple as sticking them in there)"


HAVE YOU LOST YOUR F ING MIND??????!!!!!!!!

how about this, change the lim gaskets if they need to be changed. if metal dont touch it. change the valve cover gaskets, maybe the oil pan gasket if its wet.


forget the 180 t stat too, waste of time. does jack sh it.

dont you dare touch the bottom end, or the lifters, leave running well enough. drop it in and enjoy a running engine in your car.

^hot damn I agree with Scotty nothing wrong with the bottom ends of these motors until they get touched. Also 180 does nothing unless your tuned for it. And obviously the lim and all those gasket will need done. So better off just doing it now

you got some then lol

you never open up the rods or mains on a good engine. its the kiss of death. take those bearings you have and return them to the store.

if your taking the tranny off to do work on that, re do the engine rear main seal and the plate back theres gasket. so it dont leak later on or it fixes a current leak.

I was just about to chew your ass out when I read that you were going to replace the rod bearing. Thankfully Scotty saved your ass. Sheesh

to late, i quoted it already its there for everyone so see. lol

your not the first one thats had to be set straight. some wont listen. dont worry. just leave the rods and mains alone.

Now would be the time to check the oil pan for any leaks and clean it up and throw some rtv on it if needed.

i was being more sarcastic then harsh lol


thing is most think these engines are like a small block Chevy, bust it open slap new bearings in and life goes on. that dont work on a 3800. you open up the mains and the block will twist. then it needs shop work and crank work, then new bearings.

for the most part if you change the oil this engine can run for 300,000 plus. lots of us over 200,000. im one of them.