meshif's 2001 GTP

**TLSheff** · 05-22-2013

Originally Posted by meshif

I also grabbed one of the OBD2 -> Bluetooth adapters and Torque Pro. Once I got it figured out, I logged a short and mostly uneventful trip. I managed to get 3.8psi of boost but I also got around 3.8-4.3* of KR during/after the boost phase. I'm gonna run this tank of 87 octane down then fill it with 93 and see what kind of numbers I get then.

Other than the gas and old plugs, is there anything I should be looking at to get my KR down on a stock engine?

Truthfully a stock motor is going to have some knock. The U-bend and crappy intake is horrible for flow and add that with the low octane gas and you get what you get. I have heard some motors getting up to and over 6* of knock on a completely stock motor on 93 octane. New plugs, new filter might help a little but probably not much. You need to get rid of the u-bend to really get it down and bigger piping (headers/3" downpipe) help even more.

This is why we recommend headers/intake first then tune/pulley. Gotta have flow and knock down as low as possible before pushing more air in.

**Jevik** · 05-22-2013

Originally Posted by meshif

I'm gonna run this tank of 87 octane down then fill it with 93 and see what kind of numbers I get then.

Yeah, I think 91 is the minimum octane recommended for the gtp. Should say premium fuel only either on the cluster or the gas door. Should go without saying though for a forced induction engine. But that aside, Headers and a u-bend delete. Rockers seem to help with that too, and dont do rockers without a tune. After all that you should be knock free.

Then look into getting a built trans to prepare for future mods

**TLSheff** · 05-23-2013

Originally Posted by Jevik

But that aside, Headers and a u-bend delete.

Just headers... all header kits come with the adapters to go from 3" collector piping down to 2.5" factory bolt on flange and there-by replace the old piping which has the U-Bend in it. If you aim to keep the converter you will need to have it cut out and welded in place or purchase a new one with a 3" inlet/outlet and place it in where the "race pipe" goes that comes with the headers.

Done.

**TLSheff** · 05-23-2013

SD Headers with Race Pipe installed (No Cat) big 3" piping down to the 2.5" factory piping.

Compare to the above picture. lol

**meshif** · 05-25-2013

OK...looks like headers it is. Can anyone recommend something similar to Speed Daddy's, as the price has gone up quite a bit since most of you guys got yours($700+).

The cheapest I found on Ebay was a set from OBX with the following specs: Tubing diameter: 1 3/4", collector diameter: 2 1/2". They also come with this additional note which makes me think I should just pass on them: DUE TO A SLIGHT MANUFACTURING ERROR, PLEASE BE AWARE THAT THE ONE OF THE PIPES NEEDS SLIGHT MODIFICATION TO FIT

**DanPrixGTP** · 05-25-2013

SSAC

Known as SS Auto Chrome.

Cheap, $225ish I believe, but customer service is poopy.

**trappedgtp** · 05-25-2013

Wow that cars clean. Couldnt really notice the gap in the hood and the headlight until I read you post and looked closer.

**TLSheff** · 05-28-2013

Yes, as Dan said... basically the same header, as long as they got stock back in.
Pontiac Performance Racing Products for International Sales from SSAutochrome Inc. (scroll down to the bottom one)

Crazy, I'm going to email them to find out what is done that is different to warrant a triple in price. For the same money or less in some cases you could get SLPs or TOGs and they are the best you can buy, so we will see what is up.

As with the Speed Daddy's, the flex pipe has been known to be weaker, so you may look at a replacement double wall to fix this, and the band clamps are poopy so I would suggest buying good ones. Otherwise the SSAC have a good rep for being the best bang for your buck.