Thread: 2000 GTP: Still Alive! New Trans?

Yes and no, you can take the projectors from other cars and make them work if the housing is big enough but its more complicated with mounting them but they have way better output for the most part.. The projectors me and booba have are fairly straight forward for easy install for the most part (depending on car tho), they have a threaded shaft at the rear and it bolts through were the stock bulb usually goes with a lock nut with a little trimming of course. If you see his pictures you can see the nut on the back of the housing.

Yea, they covered the retrofit, lol. One of those things that now that I have done it once, I could do it better. Little things here and there to learn.

On the strut towers, I've looked it up some and discussed it with my buddy and we're welding in braces, for lack of better words. From what I have seen, they haven't really been compromised that bad, yet. The passenger side looks fine, no rust inside...but is still getting the same fix as the driver to be safe. Here's the driver:


Ironically, this side had the most negative camber, I bet this is why.

I'm duplicating this:


Yea, I agree on the rockers. Cool idea, but not really needed. I'm going to try and figure out some kind of drain or way to wash it out occasionally.

Well... I don't think you'll need a repair that big! Looks like one patch back there, access just sux. And yeah I'ma say black RTV next time and a little finish work with a spreader of some sort would be nicer.

I see what you mean Slowkar man- theres aftermarket projector kits and then theres OE swaps, gotcha. I bet OE yeah, has the better quality junk if you can make it all work and for cheap. If I did any work at all it would be in pieces on the asphalt in a short time. If I keep running my ol yeller SuperGlue sculptures, nothing will ever happen to them.

Well I wasn't going to cut out anything, just weld in the plate underneath the stock stuff...after cleaning the **** out of the stock stuff. We were going to drill holes in the patches (as I'll call them) and weld in there too.

Yea, I wanted to use black RTV, but I was stuck at the house for 3 days during an ice storm and orange is what I had, lol. Someday in my boredom I'll probably get black rtv and "paint" over the orange, lol.

That works. I always thought a custom made filler panel for between core support and bumper up top would completely transform the underhood of these cars. It could cover a world of unsightly things such as backs of lamps. Paired with a cover that goes where the hood insulator would go, both maybe fabbed from aluminum and wrapped with carbon-fiber look vinyl or whatever finish. Theres you a car-show type idea. Uh-oh, ideas again. Get'n close to 4.

20 more minutes, haha. I really need to come down for a visit and actually try some of these ideas with you someday, lol.

We would need one of them sandwiches like Shaggy used to build. Idea farming, lol.

Here's the output at my local Walmart. Passenger side seems better than the driver. I think there is still something wrong with the driver, but I'll let you guys tell me your opinion, lol. I messed with the bulb a bit while it was one and it did change but it never got as good as the passenger, IMO. Pics:
Upclose...er

Passenger:

Driver:

Together, I brought the driver side down a hair after this pic:

OKay, messed with it some more and it's a bit better, but I think I might have a problem with the bulb. I had to grind on the bulb holder a bit more, but it's seating better. Still slightly wobbles where the passenger doesn't, and the bulb's tip is broken. They said it shouldn't affect the output, but something is up, IMO. Here's the output so you guys can give me your 2 cents. Its pointed at my neighbor's shed and I am parked at an angle, but I'm more looking at light out put than aiming and all that:
Driver:

Passenger:

Together:


Thoughts? It's raining right now otherwise I'd swap the bulbs. At the same time I don't want to because the Passenger side is damn near perfect, I don't want to **** it up, lol.

The hot spots seem low but its hard to tell in the pictures, which could cause the color and bowing cutoff like your seeing. This is what mine looked like, you can see the hotspot from the bulb below the cutoff. If you moved the bulb around while the lights were on you could probably see the hotsoot move around.

TRS had sent me this picture showing me where they should ideally be. What I did with mine was loosen the top screw on the bulb holder to shim the bulb outward. Alternatively I was told you can use aluminum tape and layer it till the hotspot is where you want it. My problem is the bulbs are out of alignment this fixed the problem for the most part, my bulbs also wobble too which when you hit bumps is noticeable. I'm going to use some rtv too hold them eventually.

There are after shimming, but i had the hotspots too high so it bowed the cutoff upwards.

I think his look fine. Remember the exposure on the pictures are different. Alot of guys are tuning to favor the hot spot a little lower now too.

You have the nice blue cutoff which is good, now isn't that better?

So you think I should call it good? I just wanna double check, lol.

I would, I think it looks fine. The Morimoto's shouldn't need too much tuning from the get-go.

You see how the bulb is broken on the tip? That's the side that has the hotspot still, you think it might be related?

Originally Posted by REDCOMPG

That rtv +_+


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Most homebrew retrofits are never the cleanest on the backside, only so much you can do. Function is all that matters and form on the front where you see...who cares about the back.

Originally Posted by Booba5185

You see how the bulb is broken on the tip? That's the side that has the hotspot still, you think it might be related?

Nah, that won't have anything to do with it, that is down to the bowl and bulb placement. Honestly leave it be, gotta understand these are base projectors so somethings aren't 100% compared to the Lexus OEM (not this morimoto duplicate crap), as long as you are happy and no one is flashing you, don't worry.

Like Russo said, the Xb bulbs are very hit and miss at times and hence why I said the options for h1 bulbs tend to be limited.

You would be surprised on the other HID forums how much crap Morimoto catches for shady quality control considering TRS makes them out to the bee knees, not saying they are bad...what has made them so good is TRS does most of the QC and has great customer service.

The relay harness in my truck made by morimoto is so so, it passes only 10V to high beam side, even though it gets fed 12v

Originally Posted by Booba5185

You see how the bulb is broken on the tip? That's the side that has the hotspot still, you think it might be related?

Although....if that tip is broken maybe the bulb is shifted a bit in the base which could be giving you the slightly low hot spot on the Driver's side. Up to you if you want to RMA or replace them.