Before:
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...x/96cd35c7.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...x/9973f4c9.jpg
Printable View
I'm trying to find deals on a Z7 crossover and turbonetics BB 62-1. Those parts I need while finding a good LT1 maf and turbo blanket, and I think that's pretty much it. I'm going to port the rear manifold first since I still have my stock one and see if I can hit my goals. Worse case I'm not happy with it and I get a rear Plog from zzp. I'm also thinking about looking into a different cat-back, and hopefully I can pick up a TOG DP from a local member.Quote:
Originally Posted by txslow6
Sounds good I'll keep my eyes open on the items you mentioned. Instead of doing a catback have you considered a cutout? Would save you some $$$ to put towards other parts.
I'm debating using an fbody passenger side manifold for my rear
Interesting. What is making you decide on the fbody pass manifold?
Thanks. Yeah.....I'm not excited about how these cars sound with an aftermarket cat-back/mufflers.....but I want the power to be there when I want/need it. I don't want to spend the coin on an electric cutout when I can buy a used performance cat-back for a little more money, and having a manual cutout can be a pita imho.
Ehh who know I may change my mind lol. we'll see what happens when I get the 1st stage of the kit done. If i make 370whp without an aftermarket cat-back/cutout I'll be happy.
Would an fbody passenger manifold bolt up like a factory rear manifold?
I don't believe so. Head ports are different i believe.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wotgtp
With a turbo they actually don't sound half bad. The turbo helps ALOT in the sound department.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wotgtp
For your dyno runs, did you have a cutout and/or an open wastegate?
Last dyno run which was like a month ago was with the cutout open.
Gotcha, I might have to look into it then.
Well worth it as the cutout also dropped the RPM at what I start going into boost.
I actually washed my hands clean of the problem I was having and took it to a shop. They isolated the various leaks it had and got it all fixed up for me. Got a little into boost and it seems to pull much better. Can't wait to hit the dyno again and see how much it has improved.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...x/c2b94f8e.jpg
Looking very nice I love the Otto bar. Miss the one I had on my old gtp just because it looked the best but fit for ****
Android Fire
I'm curious to see what you make now that you have the different manifold set up. What turbo do you have again?
Me too, curious to see the difference in power. It's been interesting watching the difference starting with the NA L67 dyno to where I am now. I'll run this intake for awhile then move to the L26. I'm running a PT-61 that came with the ct kit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wotgtp
I still have yet to get the car actually tuned and I'm pretty certain I'm going to need 60lb injectors to push the limits of this setup.
The fbody should bolt right up. I say to use that because it doesn't need capped off. Almost like using a rear plog
Thanks for the info, and yeah your car should be making some great power by now. You'll most likely need 60's if you do any more modifications boost wise to the car. Hence me just going right to 60's. From what I've seen 42's are good until 350-360ish whp on our cars. So yeah you might need them lol.
400hp if you are comfortable with injectors going up to .95 max Injector duty cycle. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Wotgtp
You're saying 400.....whp I assume? I've seen guys max out 42's with 350whp on pump gas. Have people on here used 42's safely for 400whp?