Fixed the horn.
Here's how it all went down...
First off, the wires were dead. blackened copper throughout. So I had to cut them back until I got to good copper.
Nope.
Not yet...
WOO!!!
Until I realize how close I am to the fuse block. And you can see how far I had to dig into the harness.
More harness carnage.
Now, trying to understand the fuse block and how it's wired is impossible without diagrams. Thankfully, the FSMs I have, have those wiring diagrams. It lists C3, A2 as the connection point for the horn control wire. It wasn't until I pulled the fuse block completely apart that I found what I was looking for...
These are the three sections, or connection blocks, for the main harnesses. I have figured out that C3 is the top one, not the bottom as I previously thought, and each block has a grid system as well.
A-F, and 1-12. So my horn wire is supposed to connect to A2 of C3. It was pinned to A3 of C3. That right there is why this car has never had a working horn in the first place... One wire out of place. Anyways...
They connect to these, and go out to the rest of the car. They are split up between sections of the car: top-most is the power distribution block, for all the big ass 40A and 50A fuses. Next is C3, for the front end of the car. C2, for the interior/ rear end of the car, and C1 for the engine bay. It does make sense, I guess...
Anyways, here's how my impatient splicing goes.
Re-loomed it all, plug the connectors back in, and I go to tighten the negative terminal and it's still loose as balls. lol I guess there's always something.
But, now I can press the lock button twice and...
