Thread: Fuel pumps for everything! 255lph and 340lph pumps!

Originally Posted by Tengis

Coming soon... Ive been working with the manufacturer on testing what I believe to be the first 340lph venturi pump - direct drop in on GM canisters! Basically, for all of you people with venturi pumps this will be the best drop in fuel pump upgrade available.

Ill be offering these fairly soon once they send me a "gauging interest" batch to see if I can sell them locally (Houston is a huge LSx area) and when we FINALLY get our website up.

Return or returnless?

Its return style.

Tengis, are you selling walbro yet? im in need of a GSS340 for a 94 mustang.
please let me know.

thank you.

I have had a couple Walbros in stock but sold them. Honestly, I push the other pumps I sell because they have a lower failure rate, better warranty, and flow more.

Alright, PM me a price for a 255lph hi-pressure. non walbro of course

thank you

Sent you a PM. Looks like i need a 255lph pump for my 99 GTP.

Payment sent for fuel pump!

Did you get a chance to make a write up yet ?

No write up yet. The last few pumps I put in locally a customer was waiting on me so I couldnt take a bunch of pictures. I might be doing one today actually that I can take a handful of pictures of.

That would be awesome!

in for this one!

2004 GP here. returnless sytem.

Not familiar with the setup here - venturi possible?

I really don't want to deal with 1/4 tank issues or fuel sloshing running me dry and burning a hole in a pistson.

I have a 255lph pump that is drop in for 2004 GPs but I really think 04+ people would be better off going to a junkyard and snatching the return line and fuel rail from a 97-03 car so that you can run a FPR.

Let me know when you get a writeup done. I'm a pictures guy and i'm kinda scared to replace my pump i got from you without a how to of some sort.

I took a bunch of pictures last night. Ill put together some stuff tonight.

You tha man!

I didnt get a lot of pictures this time around because I was in a hurry. This is not a complete how to. Ill post a few more pictures with better instructions.
Ill update within the next day or two when another guy is dropping off his canister for me to put a pump in it.


This is literally all you need to install a pump.
A razor blade, a pair of dikes (or similar cutting tool), the pump with install kit, and a flat head screw driver (not pictured).



TOP of the canister with pump already removed.



BOTTOM of the canister with the pump already removed.



This is how I cut the STOCK currogated fuel hose to remove it from the TOP of the canister.
I slice it down the side with a razor blade and pull it off.
Not pictured is how to remove the VENTURI hose from the pump.
Take your cutting tool and cut the small black hose DIRECTLY ABOVE the barb on the stock pump.
You will be pushing the freshly cut side of the OLD hose onto the NEW PUMPS BARB.



These are the two hoses included in a venturi kit. The white is a currogated fuel hose and has TWO DIFFERENT SIZE openings.
The smaller side of the white hose goes on the pump and the larger side goes onto the TOP piece of the fuel pump canister.
The black is a venturi hose that I never use since I reuse the STOCK one.



This is a picture of the top of the pump.
The black smooth barb comes with a metal "lip" pressed onto it (GO HERE TO SEE A PICTURE OF THE BARB - http://highflowfuel.com/files/Instal...es/volvo15.jpg ).
Do NOT REMOVE this metal lip/barb to ensure a better hose to pump barb seal.
The black smooth barb is where the SMALLER opening of the currogated fuel hose goes with one of the included hose clamps tightened snug (with the metal lip still attached - not as pictured).
The tiny brass barb is where you will push on the black venturi hose.
The number one issue with failures is right here - aka installer error. Make sure the venturi hose is all the way pushed on and the hose clamp over the currogated hose is tight enough to prevent leaks.



I position the hose clamp like this. You need to REUSE the rubber piece that is on the bottom of the pump. It makes sure that the pump is positioned correctly and doesnt move up or down.
Also, the rubber casing I placed over this pump is WRONG (will update pictures later). This customer did not have the stock piece so I had to make due.



This is where the LARGER of the openings on the white hose goes - its a TIGHT fit. I use a little bit of vasaline on the barb + Ive got strong hands to push it on. AS PICTURED it is not pressed all the way on - it will get stuck right here. Push it on until the hose hits the plastic at the base of the barb.
To make installing this easier you can take a plastic cup, put about 1 inch of water in it, and put it in the microwave for 2m and 30s.
Remove cup from microwave, hold the currogated fuel hose into the steaming/almost boiling water for maybe 1m 30s. This will soften the hose long enough for you to push it onto the barb easier.

Even more important: This side of the hose needs a hose clamp too (not pictured) and it needs to be just as tight as the other hose clamp.
I will update the picture with how to position a clamp on here soon.

Right on! This gives me a much better idea. When your done with it we'll have to make it a sticky!

Ok... Quick question... Where do I splice or how do i get the new pump adapted to the electrical wiring. The pumps plug is different. Do I splice the grey and black cable and use heat shrink butt connectors to adapt the new plug to the wiring? Pictures are below.





The plug is not the same thus making me adapt it. If i just plug it in with said red and black harness it will lose my Fuel Tank Gauge. (The Purple Wires) DO i move the purple wires to the new harness or splice the new harness's plug to the existing harness?