Quote Originally Posted by psi View Post
Picked up my first GTP (03 Red 4 Dr) yesterday aftering selling my SRT-4. It is all stock besides a PCM. I'm going to order my intake, plugs, plug wires, and get my exhaust done this week. What is a good set up for an intake instead of paying $250 I've read of people just putting a cone on the throttle body? If someone has a link to show what brands they went with or why it might be better to pay extra for a name brand that would be great. I was also given pace setter headers and a few other parts like a 3.4 Pulley with no belt. If I want to use the 3.4 what do I all need? Obviously the pulley, a belt, and the tool? Any input is appreciated.
Help in no particular order, so hope it helps:

Spectre sells open cones for $25 at your local auto parts store. Get yourself some tubing (I used 3" PVC pipe from Lowe's) to route the air intake into the fender well. Rip out the stock air box and zip tie the PCM to something so it won't rattle around.

You'll want a shorter supercharger belt with a 3.4" to discourage any belt slippage.

Not sure about pacesetter headers but I know for most other headers (SD's for instance) you'll need a front 02 extension or it won't fit.

For any headers/pulley drop you'll need a tune afterwards... firstly to delete the rear 02 SES light which *will* come on and to tune for the new setup.

Depending on whether your car is stock... and depending on whether the 3.4" is a press-on or modular system, depends on how much work you do. The modular pulleys work by pressing on a hub, and then you can change out pulleys with a few Allen bolts. Something still has to get pressed on/pressed off though. ZZP, Intense, etc. have pulley pullers. Don't use an AutoZone pulley puller or you'll have to buy a new supercharger snout when you're done.

When running a 3.4 on just headers... Scan, Scan, Scan. Get yourself an Aeroforce, Scanguage, Scanmaster, Torque App, etc... anything that scans for KR. KR is Knock Retard... when the computer senses detonation in the engine (pinging/knocking), it automatically yanks ignition timing to stop the detonation.

You'd rather run a larger pulley with no KR than a smaller pulley with KR, because when you yank timing you lose a LOT of horsepower - IIRC 3-5 hp per degree of KR. Keep at it long enough and you'll chip pistons, which means it's time for a new motor. So be prepared, if you run into KR, to pulley up or do some more supporting mods.