Thread: Key won't turn?

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  1. #1 Key won't turn? 
    SE Level Member DirkJr's Avatar
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    I recently finished my 1998 GTP trans swap

    Now I found a few more problems.

    1) My key wont turn in the ignition switch. It was stuck in because the battery was dead but i got it out (possibly with a little force) and now it refuses to turn. at all in any direction.

    2) I busted the (RF?) brake line at the firewall, does anyone have any tips on replacing this or is it rather straight forward?

    3) my master cylinder is leaking between the brake booster and the Master Cylinder itself, would this be a gasket or the master cylinder itself?

    Thanks for any help in advance.
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  2. #2 Re: Key won't turn? 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    !) theres a release under the steering wheel to push in then turn the key back if theres no power. so i bet you need a new lock and key now. you'll have to take it a part and check it out.

    in this how to they cover removing the key at the bottom. and how to get to it and remove it. http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2009/...-changing.html

    2) the brake line on the pas font should be rather easy to change the whole line, or cut the blown out part and install a new chunk of line with compression fittings, or use a flair tool and use line nuts and all.

    3) your master cylinder is dead. time to change it. when they leak between the master and the booster its the sleeve inside leaking, it will loose pressure over time and fail all the way if not changed.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  3. #3 Re: Key won't turn? 
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    I just changed my rf brake line and I ran the new line along the top of the firewall. it was easier for me and I don't care what it looks like. I made a hole in the fender well and sent it through with a grommet holding it. My car used bubble flares. I don't recommend compression fittings. However if only part of your line is bad you could splice in a piece and use a double flare tool and double flare union. You will have a hard time finding a bubble flare tool but the double flares you can find everywhere. I had to order bubble flaring tool online.

    master cylinder is easy to change and should be cheap. As long as the 2 lines come off easy.

    You might have a hard time with the ignition cylinder because it needs to be in the "on" position for you to be able to get it out.
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