Re: help! hard start after overkill pcm install
yea I'm gonna pass on the Big 3. I read the write up and it's good but REDCOMPG lost his alternator due to much power going to it. Not in the mood for that. The write also says it's not really worthy for a DD. My voltage is Constant 15.1V -15.2V already with the ZZP rewire. thanks tho machinegunsquid & scottydoggs
Re: help! hard start after overkill pcm install
the alt puts out the power, his alt went out because it was old.
all this does really is ground your electrical system better if you do the body cable too. ( neg bat to fender) being a uni body car the grounds are not solid like a full frame car of yesterday.
better grounds, larger wire for the power to travel through all adds up to a stronger electrical system.
help! hard start after overkill pcm install
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Scottydoggs
the alt puts out the power, his alt went out because it was old. .
This! Had nothing to do with the big 3.. I had a old alternator that was dying out. Been running the big 3 years later after that and everything is fine. You'll be fine putting thicker wire where GM cheaped out.
Re: help! hard start after overkill pcm install
oh ok. I might do it sometime down the road when I have money put aside in case my alt ****s out
Re: help! hard start after overkill pcm install
Quote:
Originally Posted by
REDCOMPG
This! Had nothing to do with the big 3.. I had a old alternator that was dying out. Been running the big 3 years later after that and everything is fine. You'll be fine putting thicker wire where GM cheaped out.
I like this part the best....
"...I read the thread over at gpf.net site has went to hell recently i'm registered there but only post in b/s/t most everyone on there is a bunch of dicks. http://www.gpona.com/forums/images/s...icon_smile.gif gpona = ftw"
Re: help! hard start after overkill pcm install
I have the Voltage booster and rewire, and the only issue I've had was the DIC momentarily displaying some sort of battery error...but IIRC the DIC will also display that reading if output is higher than normal....
Re: help! hard start after overkill pcm install
Lmao well gpona use to be the site to go to for tons of info and a bunch of helpful guys. Back then gpf was pretty gay seemed like guys hated being helpful. Now gpf is pretty good. Gpona still has a bunch of info but the traffic through there is nonexistent.
Re: help! hard start after overkill pcm install
I ran the voltage booster for awhile and it was fine but the last few months it seemed to screw up everything more and more. Seemed to cause security warnings left and right. battery is relatively new and alternator had just been rebuilt.. Both work flawlessly. I tried to hook the alt boost up again and bam security warnings out the butt. Discounted it 5 mins later started the car without.. And everything is fine. Personally with the big 3 upgrade done and my electronics being new I still get 14.5v and see no use in having anything higher then that.
Re: help! hard start after overkill pcm install
Quote:
Originally Posted by
machinegunsquid
Yep, best to run a fuse between the alt and the battery/fuse box. If the alt starts to over-charge it'll save your electrical system. I wanna say I have a 140amp fuse in mine, but I could be wrong.
That fuse will NEVER pop. Voltage doesn't shoot fuses, amp Draw does. So unless your alternator somehow starts pulling power instead of making power, putting a fuse from the alt to the batt is useless.
Sent from Not so smart smartphone
Re: help! hard start after overkill pcm install
If you wind up doing the big 3 upgrade (I plan on doing it to every car I own), this site has amazing prices for cable: https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/ei...F:OR:terms::PA
You can't beat barely over $2 per foot of 1/0 gauge cable, especially since it's actually 99% copper. They even have the rated amperages for different sizes and lengths of cable. The 1/0 gauge can handle 350A in runs under 50 feet. I just bought gold ring terminals and used a torch to solder the terminals on (I used high silver content solder for better conductivity). It makes one hell of a connection, and if you let the solder seep below the insulation just a tad it does a surprisingly good job at sealing out corrosion.