Thread: Power Steering Leaking from Tie Rod Boot

Your rack sounds like the only thing bad. No need to bug new lines and all now unless u just want to. For replacing the rack
put car on jack stands, take front wheels off. pop both tie rods off the knuckles. drop the cradle 3 inches, with a jack under the middle of the frame, loosen up the rear cradle bolts, lower the jack so the frame lowers to the bolts, leave the jack under the frame, let the jack carry the weight.

take the sway bar bolts out from the caps on the frame, and the end links. either push it up out of the way, or remove it, push the boot on the steering box part to remove the steering shaft to the rack, 10 or 11 mm socket, and 12 inches worth of extensions will get it out.

then take the 2 lines off the rack, 18 mm line wrench works best, then take the 2 bolts that hold the rack to the cradle off.
yup, the back 1/2 of the sub frame, its not hard to do and really does add some room to work. its tight under there. the regal and gp are 18 mm bolts.

ive dropped my sub frame 3 or 4 times already to do work on my car, its no big deal. im sure you'll have them turn handle jack stands to use.

once its out of the mount, you need to twist it through the wheel well on the drivers side. its tight, but it will fit.

reverse to put back in the new one.

tips. start out with your wheels straight. lock the wheel do not play with the steering wheel at all, spinning it round and round like a little kid on a ride will break the clock spring. lock it keep it locked.

line up the new rack to the old rack, match up the shaft on the rack, the part where the steering shaft sits over, make them match as close as possible. mark where the tie rods were match them up as best you can as well, then install it. getting the shaft back on the new rack can either make or break you, id spread the end open just a bit when the rack is removed. its a slipper shaft, so it will slide up and down, pull it down on to the racks nub have someone wiggle the steering wheel, the smallest amount as you pull it back on the rack, mine slid on like butter, i changed my intermediate shaft some time later, and the fight was on.

after the new rack is in fill the res on the pump, this is wheels off car off, crank the steering wheel lock to lock 5 times, fill the res up again, start it up, turn the wheel lock to lock, 15 times, check, and top off the res, that should bleed it out.

^^^the replacing the rack part is courtesy of billboost or scottydogs. I don't remember which one

Sounds like a bad rack. Depending on where you are in OH I have a magnasteer one I'd sell cheap.

if the rack is leaking why are you buying lines? or a pump/res for it?

buy a new rack put it in, if you look from the driver side wheel weel to the boot on the rack that connects to the steering column you'll see a wire leading from this boot area, if you find this wire you have magnasteer.

Thanks for the informative guide! I wasn't expecting so much information by any means!

In any case, my mechanic buddy that I work on my car with mentioned that my subframe is starting to rot out pretty hardcore, so this may end up being the most labor-intensive job we've had to do on it thus far.

Assuming I can find one in decent condition from a scrapyard, that is.

Also, what do you mean by "turn handle jack stands"? I have two aluminum jack stands I bought from Harbor Freight, and their combined weight limit is about 3k lbs (the car weights 3.8+ from what I read on specs awhile back, plus aftermarket stereo equip..)

Link to them - http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-a...nds-91760.html

Link to aluminum jack I bought - http://www.harborfreight.com/aluminu...ons-68054.html

I wasn't expecting to need something extremely heavy-duty, it was just meant to be for oil & pad/rotor changes.

I also have a limited number of hand tools, I think the largest extension size I have is 9" (I needed for my girlfriend's spark plugs on her V4 Toyota Camry).

What other kinds of tools am I going to need to remove tie rods, etc? I'm also perusing other websites for more info on each step since: 1) I'm not the most experienced mechanic, 2) I have limited tools & time

[Edit] I think I'm just going to hit the knuckle with a rubber mallet & a lot of brute force for tie rod separation. Is that a good idea?

Originally Posted by Demi

Before my head starts spinning at all the stuff I don't feel comfortable with yet... how do I drop the cradle three inches? Are you saying with the jack under the middle of the frame *while* loosening the rear cradle bolts? By loosening the rear cradle bolts, will it drop the 3 inches you quoted?

Sorry, I just need this information before I get hung up on a certain step and I am up ish creek without a paddle. My apartment complex doesn't want us working on our cars in the parking lot, so I need to have a handle on what's coming next, *ahead of time*.

Yea the subframe has four bolts that holds it up. Their long bolts. Just loosen them with the jack under the frame then lower frame down a couple inches. But keep the weight of everything on the jack not the bolts

Either for those. Ratcheting wrenches for the rest of the job help a lot

subframe bolts are 18mm

Rack and pinion is one complete setup.

yup yup what muts said

Originally Posted by Demi

Before my head starts spinning at all the stuff I don't feel comfortable with yet... how do I drop the cradle three inches? Are you saying with the jack under the middle of the frame *while* loosening the rear cradle bolts? By loosening the rear cradle bolts, will it drop the 3 inches you quoted?

Sorry, I just need this information before I get hung up on a certain step and I am up ish creek without a paddle. My apartment complex doesn't want us working on our cars in the parking lot, so I need to have a handle on what's coming next, *ahead of time*.

your on the right track. put the car up on jack stands. remove the tires, pop the tie rod ends, then put a jack under the middle of the back of the sub frame, take the rear bolts out, lower the jack to lower the frame and the rack.

you need about a 1 foots worth of extentions to get the bolt off the intermediate shaft, (11 mm) then pop it up and off with a screw driver.

remove the 2 lines from the rack, driver side, 18 mm line wrench works best, then take the 2 bolts out that hold the rack to the sub frame.

some people remove the sway bar for more room, then push the rack out the driver side wheel well, its tight almost like giving birth.



some extra tips before you start make sure the wheels are dead straight, lock the steering wheel do not touch it till your putting the intermediate shaft back on.

when putting the intermediate shaft back on, pull it to the rack, then have a friend unlock the steering wheel and wigle it one way then the other in very small amounts of movement till it slides on. DO NOT SPIN THE WHEEL AROUND LIKE A LITTLE KID ON A COIN OP RIDE, YOU'LL BREAK THE CLOCK SPRING AND COST YOU MORE TIME AND MONEY.

once the old one is out, match it up to the new one, make the little knob on the rack match as close as the old one, the tie rod ends, measure how far your lock nut is on the rod end, put it at the same place on the new rod, this will get your alignment close, you will need an alignment when your done.


IF your changing the whole sub frame, you need to hang the engine in the bay, then un bolt the rack from the column, and the tranny and motor mounts, and un clip any wires and lines and the ball joints, then un bolt all 4 frame bolts, and lower the frame out with 2 floor jacks. swap the new rack on the new sub frame, put it back in.