Thread: how do you remove the throttle body mesh?

theres a ring clip around the screen, use 2 nails or picks to squeeze the ends together to remove it.

whyw would you remove, that serves as a air flow straightner for more accurate reading for the MAF..?

nope it is stuck in their good lols
i took 2 big paper clips then bent them in a U shape and bent one end so i could grab onto them, put one paper clip threw the top of the mesh and one at the bottom, then I yanked the top, then the bottom and repeated til it came out.

^Right.

Keep it there.

It's not a restriction.

Originally Posted by JLiss

whyw would you remove, that serves as a air flow straightner for more accurate reading for the MAF..?

to clean the TB maybe. and you can get a incar tune to fix having the mesh out as long you have 6 inches or more of straight tubing after the maf.

I pulled mine out to clean it. I honestly would never take it out incase for some reason a hole would develope in the air box or cone falls off. At least it might help stop bigger debries.

Originally Posted by Grimsin

to clean the TB maybe. and you can get a incar tune to fix having the mesh out as long you have 6 inches or more or straight tubing after the maf.

6" of tubing AFTER the MAF?

Are you using an external MAF then in your L36 car?

6" of tubing after the maf correct.
I had mine out since the incar retune from overkill, i told him the screen wasn't in there, he said it was fine and he did 1.5-2 hours of tuning and said the readings weren't fluctuating and the car was easy to tune.
got my 800 km on a full tank of gas without it, did it make a difference in power? I don't think so but hasn't caused me any problems.

Originally Posted by Grimsin

to clean the TB maybe. and you can get a incar tune to fix having the mesh out as long you have 6 inches or more or straight tubing after the maf.

no, that serve's for ACCURATE readings period, there is no flow restriction, dont you know people including myself, have added that to their boosted application to flow better and smoother, more accurate when tuning. that contributes to helping the maf keep things stable and consistent, epsecially in the boosted application where maf in boost is vital.

here is some hard data we have done on testing it
before smoke going through maf housing
[img]http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...01/natflow.jpg[/img]

after with honey comb n
[img]http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...anno01/air.jpg[/img]


before screen log

[img]http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...en100mmMaf.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...en100mmMaf.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...anno01/sam.jpg[/img]

that doesnt look exactly like engine circumstances(that box it huge for the tiny amount of air coming in. im not gonna argue though all i did was look at overkills reading and they were smooth the intake setup i made was smooth enough. and my qtr mile times of 15.7-15.6 all night also shows it wasnt making a huge power loss/gain due to tumbled air.

Originally Posted by Grimsin

that doesnt look exactly like engine circumstances(that box it huge for the tiny amount of air coming in. im not gonna argue though all i did was look at overkills reading and they were smooth the intake setup i made was smooth enough. and my qtr mile times of 15.7-15.6 all night also shows it wasnt making a huge power loss/gain due to tumbled air.

lol well the bigger box was used to so that you can visually see the difference, bigger or smaller the outcome is the same. But i mean lots of cars run them out the factory without them, some aftermarket companies weld them into their intakes as well. i personally like them there, as air is stupid and will go all over the place, the honeycomb directs air flow consistently the same without change.

I like mine there for the peace and mind of not being able to such something into the engine that could damage it.

Originally Posted by JLiss

lol well the bigger box was used to so that you can visually see the difference, bigger or smaller the outcome is the same. But i mean lots of cars run them out the factory without them, some aftermarket companies weld them into their intakes as well. i personally like them there, as air is stupid and will go all over the place, the honeycomb directs air flow consistently the same without change.

ya it does direct air flow perfectly no mater what. only reason i honestly did it was cause i destroyed it the day before the tune by stepping on it accidently lmao, glad it works without it, also happy you can discuss it without a huge flame war overtaking this poor OPS thread lol.
To the op: YA THE tb's need to been cleaned they get pretty gunked up, more on the other side of the tb though(not the side your trying to get to).

the maf un screws from the top of the TB, no need to take the TB off to clean it. if you clean the TB you want to take the maf off as you dont want anything to touch the maf but maf cleaner.