Why is my.. Top swapped car so damn slow?

**matt5112** · 09-02-2012

Originally Posted by dsmuts

What's your AFR?

Its a zzp, its probably good.

**JoRoW99** · 09-02-2012

Skip the aeroforce and either get a used tuner or a good custom tune, you wont need one after that (unless you plan on modding further). the custom tune should be a GTP bin file with the GT tranny tables once you get there.

**dsmuts** · 09-02-2012

Originally Posted by matt5112

Its a zzp, its probably good.

mines at 10.2 @ wot. Maybe I'll get around to tuning her one day

**Pure2sin** · 09-02-2012

ZZP sets their AFR at 11.5 while in PE. FYI

**dsmuts** · 09-02-2012

Then why is mine so far off? I really need to fix it maybe i'll get bored tom and look into it.

**Josh Ehlert** · 09-03-2012

This is the correct scan gauge right?
Aeroforce - Aeroforce Intercepter Scan Gauge #

**Swiggles** · 09-03-2012

Yes just make option 2 says PT

**Josh Ehlert** · 09-04-2012

Just an update.. I ordered my scan gauge yesterday and it was shipped out today. My pulley measures 4.1 inches and I see maybe 3 psi of boost. Does this seem normal? I put the belt back on for a single pull and for the second or 2 I was on the gas that's what I saw. The belt is back off and will stay that way untill my gauge is installed.

I checked my vacuum lines for my boost bypass valve. The top one goes to the vacuum tree, and the bottom one goes a solenoid, and then from the solenoid to the vacuum tee under the snout. When I push the gas, the bbv opens and closes. Normal right? I'll include some pics.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1346802279.156772.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1346802633.033038.jpg

**matt5112** · 09-04-2012

3 psi is low.

If i were you, I'd replace the vacuum lines.

That evap line doesn't look happy.

**Josh Ehlert** · 09-04-2012

I'm pulling 20 IN-hg of vacuum so I don't think I have a leak. If a stock pulley is 3.8 and I have a 4inch pulley is that a big enough difference to lower my boost to 3? It should be 7psi with a stock pulley right?

**matt5112** · 09-04-2012

I pull 21 in Hg with a 99 kPa baro.

I've still seen that sort of vacuum with a vacuum leak.

5-7 PSI is typically good.

If you measure the outside of it to be around there, its probably a stock pulley. Little more difficult to measure a stock pulley than an aftermarket MPS.

**Josh Ehlert** · 09-04-2012

Ok. I'll hunt around for a vacuum leak. There doesn't seem to be many vacuum lines so it should be pretty easy. I just hope that there isn't a supercharger/lower intake manifold leak causing my low boost.

**Josh Ehlert** · 09-05-2012

Got my scan gauge today. The boost part of the gauge doesnt seem to work too well..

8632C95A-FD9C-409F-AADC-A54780B47A82-14544-00001151B07A1B31.mp4 video by Joshua_Ehlert - Photobucket

**matt5112** · 09-05-2012

Did you set it to read map in hg/psi?

The boost setting is only for duramax diesels lol.

**Josh Ehlert** · 09-05-2012

Man do I have a long way to go..

**Sushamouf** · 09-05-2012

Whaaa??? I thought it showed boost? Here is ZZP's readup, 8th down in the list (Manifold Pressure (vacuum/boost) displayed in PSI).

**FoSHO99** · 09-05-2012

1. Is the boost bypass valve control harness plugged in or exist? Unplugging/not having power to the connector to the boost bypass control (the little box with one open port) will cause it to only boost 3-5psi. Disconnect the hose on the bottom of the actual bypass valve (leave the hose on top of the bypass valve connected) and try that.
2. Is this a gtp harness/pcm or just a gtp flash without much wiring done?
3. During a roll in or brief WOT what does the timing/ignition advance read and the knock retard register?
4. That looks like a L36 MAP sensor hooked up in the last picture, need to get into the pcm to know if it is a L36 pcm or modified L67, if it's L67 unless they did a bunch of **** to the map tables it won't read right. It's getting late, worth throwing that out there though. Too much speculation, you need a custom pcm and the correct **** hooked up.
5. I can't tell, but are you missing a s/c bolt in the 3rd pic?

Look into the swap threads and cover your bases.

Also, the two big wires or sensors that you should be looking into if it is properly setup.

L36 to L67 Wiring Conversion Kit

**Josh Ehlert** · 09-06-2012

H'ok.

1. The solenoid (boost bypass control solenoid?) has a harness plugged into it. And when I rev the motor and watch the valve it will open/ close. If the control valve wasn't functioning properly the bypass valve actuator would t move right? Should I still disconnect the bottom line on the solenoid and see if something changes?

2. I do not know if the PCM is a gtp or gt. is there something on the PCM itself that would let me know which one it is? All I was told is that it's a zzp 1.0 tune.

3. I will set the gauge to read timing/ignition advance and knock and make a video and post it up.

4. If I remember right there are some markings or a sticker on top of the map sensor. I will look at what it says and post back. I will also look for something written on the ecu to see if I can identify it. Or is the only way to tell is to open up the ecu?

5. Good eye, yea there is a missing bolt. Haven't gotten a chance to get one in there. Will do that tomorrow.

I will also check to see if I have that adapter harness for the map sensor. If the map sensor is an l36 and the PCM is an l36 there has to be some sort of tune on the PCM since I don't have any knock (or very little(.8)) right?

**Btownmills** · 09-06-2012

Josh, if you plan on going to highway this weekend I could possibly take a look at it for you.

**FoSHO99** · 09-06-2012

Unplug the bottom port of the Bypass valve and check the map psi before/after but do that while checking for knock retard, let off if you see it spike to 5* or more.

The real problem is that there could be multiple problems, looks to be a L36 map sensor, Topswapped, unknown injectors (l36/l67) and unkown pcm programming and how does a s/c bolt disappear, the rest torqued right? There even a gasket there? lol