Printable View
Being a GP, you likely don't need them in the position to hold the gear selector bracket. I think that was primarily the H/C/G bodies in the 00+ years. You can put them in any position you would like. I put them up on top where it's easy to deal with them.
I also replace those four on the bottom with regular case bolts (I have billions of spares) and never worry about that torx junk. There is no need for torx to be on the bottom that i can find.
Thank you. I found some pics that show two of them on top but wasnt sure about the 3rd. Guess I'll just toss it in the line somewhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
See where the cable bracket is sitting on the trans in his link? That's where they were intended ...kinda
http://www.grandprixforums.net/threads/91317-Trans-Info
I absolutely see what you mean. Thanks for the link.Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Torque specs on side cover? Cant find them here or in 3800 torque specs thread
Digitized from my thumbs to your screen by my Tab3
18 ft pounds.
I don't have a torque wrench can I just make sure they are good and tight and be good?
Autozone rents them if you have a ride over thereQuote:
Originally Posted by AntonyJ1214
This isn't really a job I'd do without a torque wrench. Especially the valve body\channel plate bolts, they get 106 inch pounds (most of them) and that's not very tight at all. At the same time, you don't want to go to loose.
Based on the second picture which solenoid is the shift b?
my father in law has a 2003 N/A impala that wont go into over drive. the car has 200,000 miles on it. if we change the 4th gear shaft, will the splines on the new shaft cause faster wear on the clutches and drive chain, or whatever the 4th gear shaft connects to? I have a new double chain that was intended for a gxp transmission to put in if the need is there.
They will wear at the same rate as a correctly functioning 4t65e, no harm from a 4th gear shaft in good condition. If you want to be safe the Borg Warner 4th gear friction and steels aren't too expensive and don't have the overheating issue the stock ones tend to run into, you'll probably notice some scorch-type marks on yours. At 200,000 miles they may need replacing anyways.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought 2003 and up 4t65e's received hardened shafts from the factory? You may want to send an email to TEP performance for a professional opinion, no sense wasting money if the Impala already has the hardened shaft.
My 2003 SSEi had soft 4th shaft. Depends on manufacture date, not sure anyone knows what the exact date is.
I heard that to, but it's an n/a impala so I'm not sure if it has the hardened shaft. If it's a cheap easy fix he may consider it but otherwise, the car has 200,000 miles so he isn't sure if he wants to do it or not
Sorry to bump a 2 year old thread, but this thread seems the best to ask this question since I am doing this repair this weekend...
While I was pulling the channel plate off, somehow all the "innards" (second drum, sprocket support, ect) apparently wiggled forward enough for the sun gear input shaft to be pulled free...
I know this sounds weird since the chain on the outside kinda holds it all in place (chains might be toast), although this isn't a bad thing since I found another culprit to my no 4th while I had all the guts laying in my hands after fully taking off the chain...The sun gear input shaft is stripped out where the 4th shaft inserts into...(so i have a stripped combo of the 4th shaft and sun gear input shaft)
So it is kinda good everything fell out into my hands! :th_sick2:
Also, after reviewing some videos on youtube, I noticed my 2nd clutch has "excessive" clearance between the clutches...
The reason for posting here is to ask this question...
When I get my replacement sun gear input shaft, what is the best method to getting "the guts" back in and the shaft into the sun gear?
I have tried all kinds of things, although, it appears that when I have everything out (sprags, 2nd clutch, sprocket support) that it would be easier to have everything assembled outside the transmission and slip the whole shebang in, although this method is tough since the assembly is bulky and heavy...
Any input as to getting everything back in after replacing the sun gear input shaft will be helpful!
Hey tyler, where is the email man!?
edit -- this video proves useful...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nl5i...3-GZmH-Akbw52P
Use this link to download the info you need.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/a98nnzizk...WBSdkG6Ta?dl=0
As for assembling it, I assume the trans is still in the car. It's going to suck. You need to wiggle/jiggle and basically have the patients of about 10 saints in order to get lucky enough for it to slide back together. It's supposed to be assembled with the tailshaft facing down and therefore trying to put this wobbly mess together with it in a different position will be tricky. I have done it, but ... it too a lot of luck.
Thanks for the links BillBoost, much appreciated!
Quick question, do they make a hardened sun gear input shaft?
Not the 4th, but the sun/planetary input shaft the 4th goes into...
This bad boy (splines gone!)
http://i.imgur.com/AoawQoP.jpg
This is what I expected to hear...Also, not sure how i'm gonna tweak the chain when that comes time to install..Quote:
It's supposed to be assembled with the tailshaft facing down
Thanks for the input