Thread: snout bearing replacement

I have searched everywhere for info on rebuilding my gen v snout and the only thing I can find is info on the gen 3. Im not sure if they are the same. All I need to know is how to safely get the shaft out of the snout casing and I should be able to get it from there. For the gen 3 I read that you just tap the shaft fron the pulley side and the shaft will come out with the bearings. I tried this and the shaft did not budge, what is the best way to get that shaft out? Thanks in advance.

I am doing my Gen 3 right now. I am pretty sure they are the same. Don't be afraid to really smack it. Everything is pressed in so it takes some force to get it out. There is also a large spring on the other side of the shaft, so make sure u don't loose that. If you want, i can take some pix of my snout taken apart so you can see what I mean.

Ok ya I have seen the spring but I beat the hell out of it lol. Although I was just using a smaller dead blow hammer should I try a brass hammer, somthing that would shock it a little more?

LoL I used a regular 4LB short handled sledge. LoL Fanece is not really a strong point of mine..... Ofcourse, because mine came apart like that, doesnt make my way of doing it correct. I am sure if you took it to a machine shop, they can press it out for you...

What's a Rice killer?

GenIII to GenV's they are the same pretty much.

You will need a arbor press to do the bearings correctly. This is what I use to disassemble, and reassemble superchargers. Its a 12 ton press, nothing special.

For the DIYer, once the pulley is off, you can, with hand tools, smack the snout shaft with a hammer. You will have to use a steel headed hammer, a rubber mallet, or dead blow hammer wont cut it. Hit it straight, and it will come out.

Once the shaft is out, you can take a 21mm or 22mm deep socket and a long extension. Put the extension in the socket backwards, so you have a BIG surface on the back side of the socket to use.

AFTER you make sure the retaining clip is removed from the end of the snout!

put the socket and extension inside the snout, and hit the extension to hammer out the seal AND the outer bearing.

Clean and degrease all parts well at this point.

To remove the inner bearing off the snout shaft you HAVE to hold the bearing while pressing OFF the coupler joint. I do not recommend using a puller and PULL the joint off. This is where you need a arbor press, AND a specialty tool. I made my own tool that goes around the snout shaft and is longer than the shaft once on, so when you press on the shaft, the shaft will press on out of the joint, and bearing, and the shaft will fall below and stop on the press plate. This is very dangerous to try and do yourself with basic tools, and even with a press, things can go wrong. Its not uncommon for the bearing to grenade on you when your pressing it off. 1 in every 30 may do it. Wear your safety glasses and don't stand in front of the press while you work.

You will also need a arbor press to install the bearings.

The reason why you need to use a press is because it has constant EVEN pressure as it installs the bearings. Hitting it with a hammer is a harsh, sudden, and shocking pressure...which can damage the bearing.

You will also need a specialty tool to install the snout seal as well. The replacement seal is most likely what you removed, metal with a coating on the O.D. that's a seal against the case, and a rubber inner seal for around the shaft. You have to open the inner seal up, and hold it while you install it on the snout shaft, or it will curl on you, and ruin it. Also, you have to press the seal in evenly so you do not bend or damage it, or mess up the outer seal around it and it will leak at the seal to snout area.

$50.00 labor, ($80.00 non members) same day service, you supply the parts and I rebuild and ship it back.

~F~

Originally Posted by txslow6

What's a Rice killer?

A rice killer is someone who lays the smackdown on people who believe their little honda civics with a fartcan and a 35in tach are fast. :-) right?!?!?!

Agree with GR8, I used a press for mine. However subsequent rebuilds I did at home with basic tools and being creative.

Originally Posted by WHT98GTP

A rice killer is someone who lays the smackdown on people who believe their little honda civics with a fartcan and a 35in tach are fast. :-) right?!?!?!

I thought maybe his real name was Jared and he owned RICEKILLER.COM - Uniting Imports and Domestics against Rice!

Originally Posted by WHT98GTP

A rice killer is someone who lays the smackdown on people who believe their little honda civics with a fartcan and a 35in tach are fast. :-) right?!?!?!

couldnt have said it better myself!

WOW thank you Gr8 for that quick wright up! Thats perfect when I get off work ill have to get right on that. And if I cant get it lol I send it to you.

RK.. grab some pics. We can use the write up, add the pics to it and have some great info for others.

next snout rebuild for me, I was going to do a multi part, rebuild video and share it.

It may not be how "you" do it or would do it, but its a tried and true method that has worked for me for many years.

~F~

So u I picked up a press and pretty much got it done but I still have a question. On the coupler side how far should the bearing/shaft assembly be pressed into the snout casing? Should it be all the way seated with the spring fully compressed or should it just sit flush the casing?

Press the shaft in until it stops. Make sure your using fresh clean oil as lube for both sides of the bearings, the I.D. and O.D.

The shaft has a "lip" machined on the end of it for the bearing behind the seal, that's what stops the shaft in the right spot.

Your going to want to install the large bearing (outer bearing) first, holding that bearing in place, and pressing the shaft loaded with the new bearing on it, on through the other side until it stops. Done.

~F~

Awesome thanks again! You know your sh*t!

Going to move this to the how to section, good write up farns.

NP.

I'll get around to doing a rebuild with lots of visual aids. I'll probably do the whole thing with deep and shallow sockets, because that's what most everyone will have, vs. making their own tools, and jigs.

~F~