Thread: Tail-Lights Tinting [*]

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  1. #1  
    I live here. UR LOSN's Avatar
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    sounds to me like it wasnt fully cleaned...happens to paint as well.

    if you touch it...the oils form your fingers gets on and doesnt create a good bond between the clear and the VHT. there is a cleaner solution sold at most autoparts stores that cleans the surface completely of all oils. if not use windex...AFTER the nightshades has dried..before the first coat of clear.

    this should help out...if not....I have no idea. bad batch of clear?
    2001 GTP- PT76 turbo, Intense Drag cars old engine, Stage 4 Intense turbo cam,FMIC,150 wet,Double roller timing chain,Diamond forged coated pistons 8:0:1,Diamond piston rings,Cryoed L32 connecting rods,Cryoed crank,Clevite77 main bearings,Clevite77 cam bearings,Clevite77 L32 rod bearings,ARP Everything, Intense/meizere true billet Flexplate,Intense Wilson UIM/LIM,Intense oil pressure kit,Cometic,OE-R lifters,Cryoed L67 block,ATI turbo dampner,80# inject,Weldon 2035 fp,Aero Fuel Rails,AL cradle
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    SE Level Member JASON 77's Avatar
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    couple other small things i like to do. instead of the scotchbrite/scuff pad wet sand with 400 grit apply 2 to 3 coats (dark) 1 coat (very pleasing as not too dark) let stand 20 to 30 min between coats, after final coat. wet sand with 1000 grit to get any contaminents/dirt, then apply the clear coat. i use automotive grade to give a great look that lasts.
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