hmm, cuz my new bolts were loose after the first month of driving.... so I re-torqued em down, but haven't checked on em in a while....
Printable View
hmm, cuz my new bolts were loose after the first month of driving.... so I re-torqued em down, but haven't checked on em in a while....
Will the steps above work for the rear hubs as well? I need to replace both rears hub assemblies. 04 Pontiac Prix with 100k.
The wheel hub assemblies front and back are different but are relative. The back doesn't have an axle going into it and is held in place by four bolts.Quote:
Originally Posted by echasel
My experience so far is the backs are easier than the front of a higher milage car as the axle up front can be difficult to get to break free.
You'll need to:
Remove the wheel
Remove the brake caliper and hang it on the spring (and not by the brake line)
Remove the rotor
Disconnect the brake/sensor connector
You'll see four bolts in a square around the assembly, those are it.
A little off topic but this reminded me of toll road charges (they charge you based on the number of axles) and how the minimum number of axles to choose from is 2. I wanted to argue with them to charge me less because I technically only have 1 but I had somewhere to be :P that and I didn't feel like being a dick.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorecki
Now for my on topic comment. Rear hubs are easy as pie. If you know what you're doing it goes pretty quick. I replaced both fronts and one rear this past summer. 2004 GP GT with 134k miles.
You'd do well to check them again. Once they are holding, you should be good to go, but if they keep loosening up, something is wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by 03GTPLE
Do I understand you to mean that you replaced the bolts that came out with NEW bolts - i.e, from the dealer, overpriced bolts with undersized heads and the little patch of threadlocker on the side?
Now I feel like I'd better go back under the front end with the torque wrench! :eek:
Best,
Tom
One thing I might add to this write up. I've done some hubs where they are pressed in really tight. An Air Hammer with a chisel bit works great (use it on the three corners, just a little at a time to help break it loose once all bolts and nuts have been removed).
Anybody used 1A Auto : Aftermarket Auto Parts, Car Body Parts, Replacement & New Automobile and Truck Parts | Buy Discount Car & Auto Parts Online for parts? Found wheels bearings and the price is attractive. But, they do not say who manufactured the hub assy.
Haven't worked with them but if they don't say who makes the part I'd at least call/write and ask. Otherwise you have no idea what you're getting and if what you paid for it is a good price. I can see they have some cheap bearings but they could very well be PartsMaster stuff (or PartsMaster with their name on it) which I would be really think twice about.
We just did a set on a 99 Regal. If you round the bolt you'll have to cut through it with a SawZall or grinder with cutoff wheel on the outside. Just cut down through the bearing and avoid the knuckle. The stealership charged me $7 for a bolt. One of mine was stubborn, the other easy. Forget the flange puller or slidehammer. If it's stuck use an OTC 7394 or similar with an impact gun. Its built like a tank, no worries..............Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroAK
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x..._Puller001.jpg
Just did my fronts. True getting everything off is a true PIA, but I thought the worst part was getting all the bolts torqued down. The tight space and the need to use extensions made this job a real bear!
The job is much easier if you use a 1/2 dr size reduced to 3/8. We used 3/8 ratchet on the first one, thats why the bolt got rounded off..............The top bolt, a short 3/8 6 point and a wobble extension worked great.
Or you buy a 1ft 3/8 drive with good sockets. :th_thumbsup-wink:Quote:
Originally Posted by marnav1
I used a 12in Matco flex head w Snap-On 6pt 13mm socket. Maybe I'm gettin sloppy in my old age. Still rounded one off.....................
hmm, never rounded one off with my snapon sockets. Time to warranty that one.
Great write up.
Used it this weekend to replace both on my GTP. Went with the 513121 TIMKENS.
What is the issue with using the old hub bolts vs. buying new bolts?
The threads did not appear to be deformed and the head was not damaged during removal. What is GM's reasoning behind using new bolts? Can't imagine the torque applied is close to yielding the bolt(per previous posts).
aren't they prevailing torque bolts?
I used the stock bolts on all 3 of mine that I changed 10k miles ago and I've had no problems.
I reused my hub bolts aswell. No issue and some are YEARS old
Buy brand name or be prepared to do them again, again, again... I bought Timken made in USA from Amazon for $90 each.Quote:
Originally Posted by echasel
I think that's the only practical explanation. So even though I'm one who reused them, I'm not so sure it's the best idea in retrospect. :th_nervous:Quote:
Originally Posted by That Canadian Guy