Thread: How To: Change Cluster LEDs on 04+ Photo-guide (pics now repaired)

So, your dash kinda looks like this without the boost gauge pointed out. You could be a bit tired of it. Maybe you want something easier on the eyes at night.



First, you’ll need some LEDs. (Edit: You can search PLCC-2 SMD LED, or something like “LED 1210/3528 (color choice)" This seems easiest to find as many colors as possible.) The four pad ones marked "PLCC-4" are incorrect.

Note: I believe the LEDs I ordered show up as 1000 mcd brightness. I don’t think this is correct. This is important because at 1000, it might be way too bright. I’ve found parts the exact same part number that show them in the 300-400 mcd range. I'd try to keep the brightness about there. These are what I used - http://lighthouseleds.com/catalogsea...ex/?p=1&q=1210



You’ll need a decent iron and some solder. My joints came out functional and sturdy, but not pretty at all. Lol (see below)

Note the notched corner on the LEDs. These are for polarity and need to be in the upper right corner assuming you are viewing the board the way it goes in the car.



It’s been suggested to look for no-clean solder because the flux comes off more easily. I used Wal-mart rosin core, and you’ll see the bit left on the board even after rubbing alcohol. The iron I used was a Weller WPS18MP. There are much better ones. I just used what I had, including a damp microfiber cloth to clean my iron. It was like .88 and went in the garbage can after.



Ok, to start you’ll need to follow the directions from the following link to remove the gauge cluster. You’ll go up to Step 9. My only advice here is in Step 8 find the marked section above the cluster in the guide, instead of grabbing at the top, follow the edge down to two tabs the lower dash panel go into. Pulling those is easier than trying to grip the top edge for removal. http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technolo...ctions/hud.htm

Once the cluster’s out, look at the edge for several black plastic tabs. One side holds the plexi cover, and the other holds on the back plate. Set those aside for cleaning being careful not to get a bunch of stuff in the glass side.



Separate the board from the housing by pressing the clear plastic tabs while lifting the board after you remove the needles. Try not to flex the board. The clear plastic will stay attached to the gauge backing.



The needles need to be marked (small arrow in the pic shows a tiny ink mark). I came across a “guide” for installing different colored gauge backgrounds. I believe an alignment tool is used in the hole marked with the large arrow for those, which are probably worth a second look to match your color scheme.



The motor shafts are actually pretty hard to bend, but still be careful.



Now, in that guide was a difficult to read procedure for the needles. It’s actually much easier.

Needles OFF: All the motors have stops. I turned my needles all the way left, careful not to force the needle past its stop. Mark it there. Pull them off with fingers or a tool. Don’t bend the shafts.

Needles ON: Start the needles much too high on the dial. Barely set them back on, just enough to stand. Turn them left, waiting to feel the shaft stop. With the shaft still stopped, gently guide the needle to its low mark. Hold steady with the other hand and just push them all the way down. They won’t bottom out or anything.

Next, I apologize for this uhm, map I guess. It’s a little messy, but it does mark out the illumination LEDs in blue and red marks. There are a total of 25 LEDs for illumination. There’s a clearer pic of the stock red LED locations below. The orange drawing are the indicators. Above the TCS light on the left is the Up Shift light for Tapshift. I don’t know what’ll happen if your car isn’t equipped, but you can simply cover it with tape.*





*I was also made aware that apparently there are models in which the ABS light on this cluster will stay illuminated. I think that was if your car doesn’t have ABS brakes? Again, it can be covered with tape. My current LEDs are covered from a bad ABS module. However, THIS IS UNSAFE. Please follow your operator’s manual and all that.

Here are a few solder points that are a little tight. Be careful for heat soak to nearby components. The motor in the pic is the speedometer.



I don't have pictures of the actual soldering because well, I only have two hands. So...

To remove stock LEDs: I tried adding solder first, then heating while lifting with a tweezers. Adding solder is unnecessary. It was easier to heat one side while lifting with tweezers. The stock LED will lift on one side, bending the foot on the other. I did that all around each section first, so I had 8 LEDs partially lifted on the left gauge, for example. I then went back around and picked up the LEDs with the iron and set them in the towel.

To mount new LEDs: I used my old, bad habit way of doing this. There has to be a better guide on how to hand solder SMDs with proper pictures. Anyway, what I did was clean off one pad as best I could with quick flicks of the iron to remove solder. I later found solder wick. I then tinned the other pad with a bit of solder. I didn’t want a huge glob or big bubble, just a dab. I held the LED with a tweezers and attached it to the tinned pad, pressing down a little to flatten it out best I could. Then I soldered the other pad.

Testing: I did this a whole bunch and it gets to be a PIA. I would suggest taking out the bare board to your car for the initial test(s). Also, the header on mine didn’t need to be fully seated for it to power the cluster. Pressing that tab so many times on the harness wasn’t the best for it.



I ended up using a bit more tape because the edges lifted. I used two colors of LEDs, green and blue. Here is the picture of my final LED pattern/placement. I changed out the MPH and Seatbelt lights too. The circled color changes are my final placement after more tinkering. The red circle's around the Seatbelt and MPH lights.



This is how it'll look without painting the needles. I went to the trouble of edging them later with flat black Testors after a little 1500 grit. That cut the purplish light that followed the RPM needle around. You probably wouldn’t need to edge the whole thing, just the thick part I think would work.



And this is how mine looks with the needles edged. I may tip them with flourescent blue or white.



(Edit: Painting only the thick part is definitely an improvement. I suggest trying that first.)





As always, your mileage for the process may vary. Have fun and good luck!

Just wanted to say thanks for write up. Just did mine and came out great! Thanks again!

Also, to remove the solder easier you can use a de-soldering pump. Here is what I have used in the past.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/88552732

I also use this soldering station.

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-.../dp/B000BRC2XU

Yes I did. Never did much soldering before just took my time came out great. It was well done write up you did. Thanks

Thanks for the feedback, guys!

If you don't want to do this yourself for whatever reason (no time, equipment, experience, etc.) there's a guy on the FB groups selling them. Looks like he knows what he's doing because he has several photo's of excellent work. There are a couple concerns though, at least to me.

He has a Canadian plate on his ride (also exemplary, btw.) That's good for friends north of the border, but shipping may be a factor. Especially, if you want your original cluster back. I'm not sure what he's charging, but he seems open and up front about it.

It would cost a little under $100 to do this yourself; that's including one extra cluster and LEDs.

You can find him by looking for a 3800 group member with "Steven Leafnation John" fb profile name. Good enough then, thanks!