And what is better about these than the PRJ's?
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From LSChris, posted on another forum:
Very simply, Magnecor R-100 wires are all out, no expense spared wires, with the best materials and construction available. To add to what chris has said, the Taylors use a conductive fluorocarbon outer layer around their winding, which incidentally is where the current will be flowing! So then we're back to standard, carbon conductor wires that will wear out and degrade.The design and construction of the wires we are offering is superior to the Taylor 409 Spiro Pro wire (the wire used in PRJ wires) in two key ways.
Taylor wires use a spiral wound Ferrite core. Ferrite is iron and corrodes easily. Which is what makes it a bad candidate for an ignition wire conductor. It is a popular choice among manufacturers in the industry because it is extremely cheap. The wire we are offering utilizes a tightly wound stainless steel core, which will not corrode and degrade as iron does. The price of stainless steel is significantly higher than iron, which is why our wires bear a higher cost.
The wires we are offering use a 100% pure silicone jacket with no filler material. Taylor wires do not. Instead, they use three layers of silicone with two layers of fiberglass filler in between to lower manufacturing costs.
The inner most layer of fiberglass in Taylor's 409 Spiro Pro wire is said to increase the "pull strength" of the wire. A spark plug wire is not a rope! It does nothing to prevent the wire from being pulled out of the terminal in the instance of improper removal. Pulling on the wire (and not the boot) is a quick and almost guaranteed way to damage ANY plug wire.
The wires we are offering have a heat resistance of 700*F (continuous) and up to 1200*F for 3 minute bursts. While the Taylor wires are only rated to 600*F (continuous) even with their extra layer of fiberglass "insulation". Tightly wrapping silicone in fiberglass does nothing to provide extra heat protection. While the fiberglass itself is able to withstand temperatures of over 1000*F without burning, the silicone inside can not and cooks from within the fiberglass. The only solution in this type of situation is a "Cool Sock" or woven fiberglass boot that is installed over the spark plug wire boot before it is connected to the spark plug.
Last edited by Scimmia; 05-13-2009 at 12:05 PM.
Update:
We have 2 choices for plug boots.
Stock style plug boots (the exact plug boots on the stock wire set) and the high temperature boots seen here. If we use the high temperature boots you may have to bend the plug terminal on number 6 to clear the O2 sensor IF and only IF you are running stock manifolds.
The boots are quite longer than stock, but they can handle a lot of heat. there is a slight variance in installed boot height. We have had them adjust it down so it should clear the O2 sensor with no problem, but if your boot gets close to it (not every car is the same, there is a little varience ) and you are uncomfortable, magnecor said that you can simply bend the terminal of the boot (with the wire out of the car and ). We have tested this and it's no problem.
It's my opinion that with the adjustment you should be fine even with the high temp boots on stock manifold...
You can order the plug wires with what ever boot you like, so please post and specify. If you are running headers or turbo manifolds, i would recommend the high temp. If you are worried about the length of the high temp boot, you can order stock style (they are actually the GM boot made by delphi.) I doubt it will touch with the adjustment and if you loom them tightly. But if it does you can slightly bend the terminal. Magnecor offered to bend #6 for all of them. They say its no problem, bending it is fool-proof and any one can do it as long as you do it out of the car, it is something they do frequently with this robust terminal. You could even bend it back if you get headers.
beta set 2 will have numbers. Adding them is expensive, so i will post and the community can decide if its worth it. The cost is increasing due to the added length to route around W body engine mount. I don't know if i can split the order for those who don't have a mount there and would want a cheaper price. I'm trying to work some wiggle room into the price and I may still be able to sell them at 130, but I doubt we can keep them at 130 shipped with numbers, because the cost with shipping would then exceed 130. We're talking about a margin of dollars.
Does everyone really want numbers? It's obvious which plug each wire belongs to based on length.
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