Thread: Been a while. How does this valvetrain look?

So I'm using the zzp rocker shims. I used a black marker to color the tops of the valve stems. I installed all the rockers and did a few rotations by hand. Removed a couple rockers and they appear to be striking the center of the valve stem. You can see the spot rubbed away in the marker ink.
Without the shins they were striking too far inward towards the rocker.

So then I took it to TDC and tightened hand tight then a slight turn to snug. Repeat for all. Then turn the motor by hand a few times again just to test.

at TDC the stock pushrods still spin and one is tighter the other. But there is no play between the lifter and rocker from what I can tell.

I just want to be sure I don't need custom length rods either for just the intake or exhaus or both.
My push rod length checker was the wrong style and I didn't notice until today.

Now when I did my 1.9s and when I went back to stock rockers I don't remember these details as the heads and valves were stock
These are zzp heads with the longer valves and I swear there is a 1mm difference in height between the intake and exhaust valve stem. One just seems to sit a slight bit higher. Zzp said its the say they did the cut on the seat ?
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/djbobbyb/media/l26%20build/D50B65A9-ED49-41E9-BC27-EA4AD77245CF_zpsx7bkemgg.mp4.html

Let's take the nutty heads out of the equation for a moment. Because Bill doesn't wanna know anything about them. That's a question for James.

At TDC, the only thing I'd be thinking of is the lifter. If they aren't both pumped up, that could cause a difference.

To summarize, I believe you have a couple different potential things happening.

Figures my biggest investment was my worst investment Never again....

With the amount of rockers I've changed out, I've never been this concerned because now there is variables that I'm not used to.

as soon as I can check OK on the valvetrain , the LIM and blower go on and I have a car to drive once again

Think of it this way.

If you don't start it.. it can't break.

I feel like a noob now .....

Name change to Newbie03?

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

Name change to Newbie03?

perfect lol ^^^^^^

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

Think of it this way.

If you don't start it.. it can't break.

Lol. Before I started the car after my build, I was contemplating just sticking a for sale sign on it and rolling it out of the garage, never starting it so never realizing just how bad I screwed up.

yeah.... I'm just used to things being taken apart and re-assembled without a lot of guess work. I could just be over-paranoid and for all I know it will work fine.
Or maybe I do need a longer push rod


side note. You think stock rods and locks are OK for 130s? Wasn't sure if the 3/8 rods could fit without rubbing

What does ZZP say?

They said they used spacers under the springs and regular pushrods. The shims I need to keep the valvetrain geometry in line. That part checks out. I confirmed the shims did their job to counter-act the longer valve stems.
Now it's just the rods ....

I re - torqued them all and I think the preload is correct but after a few cranks , some push rods, on the far ends are tight and the rest can spin They flip flop back and forth.
So maywb the lifters need to be ran with oil to take up any slack but I don't feel movement up and down , just side to side.

another source said there is enough give in a stock lifter to make up for small differences

There's a decent amount in the spec to make up differences. Forget what I read, like 55 thou? When I pit in new lifters, tightening rockers I seen valves open that should have been shut. I thought crap, cause I had valve job and thought maybe they didn't take enough off top of the stem. So they were very tight, couldn't twist them. Rotated engine couple times by hand and the same valves I could now twist, but no lash. Engine runs quiet now too.

First 5 minutes sucked though, lol.

I'm trying to figure out a way to fill with oil and crank the motor over to prime it.
But the oil filter neck needs to be removed to make dropping back into the car much easier.
Aslo nothing in my garage can spin the motor over fast enough

Originally Posted by crazyguy03

I'm trying to figure out a way to fill with oil and crank the motor over to prime it.
But the oil filter neck needs to be removed to make dropping back into the car much easier.
Aslo nothing in my garage can spin the motor over fast enough

That's where I was totally stumped. I seen some mention that you can't check lash properly unlessbthe lifters were primed. Only way I could think to do that was to run the engine. Then how do you check lash on a running engine? Lol. Yeah I'm missing something but that was my train of thought...

thats my plan before the engine gets swapped. take the starter off my car, then crank the engine plugs out till i see oil pressure and oil out the push rods. i plan on doing this on the stand.