Thread: alternator charging fluctuations

These alternators have a delay as well, most times it's 10 seconds before the regulator reacts.

Oh and the voltage regulators are set to 14.7 volts. All the "alternator booster" does is put a diode on the external sense wire. The sense wire tells the regulator the system's voltage so it can adjust accordingly. Putting the diode drops that reading by 0.7v so it tricks the regulator into putting out more voltage. Also, I know the EBTCM has a code for over voltage, IIRC the voltage cap is 14.8v or so...so you take a regulator set for 14.7 volts and trick it to put out more voltage. If your grounds and the rest of your connections are healthy, you'll be throwing a code.

Originally Posted by ITHURTZ

operates in oem target all day, until i slam hard, then 11

Then you have other problems, mainly connection based, and probably internal problems with your alternator. The voltage boosters are a gimmick that falls in the same category as removing the honeycomb screen from your TB, and adjusting your BBV. Might as well put a resistor on your IAT while you are at it. Look up how these alternators work and you'll see.

lol I assure you my electrical system is in tip top above factory shape. I did remove the oem honey comb to, and like the electrical system, went bigger.

If everything is in tip top shape why do you need the voltage booster? It's a band-aid fix at best.

Because high voltage roller

Your voltage regulator is set at 14.7v, if everything was working correctly that would be your optimum voltage. You yourself said you had to use a voltage booster to achieve that...

It's simple mathematics, you are lowering the amperage by increasing the voltage. Not trying to sound like a dick, but I thought you were smarter than this.

You are looking way to hard into this, the original statement the op said was it would sit high 12's at some point which is normal. I am not normal, and that isnt acceptable to me, I prefer high 13's mid 14's at all times. I didnt do it for a bandaid fix, to fix a failing alt (its not old), I did it for my visual pleasure, mid 14's check, windows go up faster check, happy camper.

Mid 14s is a healthy alternator with good connections. You don't have that, and neither does the OP. Something is wrong with both of your charging systems.

they dont stay at a constant mid 14 forever, I dont like fluctuation.

What you are doing has no effect on fluctuation, it simply moves the area of fluctuation into dangerous areas for the car's electronics. You need more amperage to fight voltage fluctuation, or at least a regulator with a lower delay (2.5 seconds is the lowest I've seen).

Whats the stock delay? Link to other regulators?

10 seconds. http://store.alternatorparts.com/cs1...egulators.aspx

Ebay has them too. They call the delay Load Response Control.

The thing is the alternator has to produce that added amperage at the same RPM, that's why the amperage output drops, the voltage goes up.

From my understanding, alternators are only capable of so many watts at a certain RPM. When the the the amperage needs exceed what the alternator is capable of, ohm's law state the voltage must drop (to bring the amperage up). The voltage booster does the opposite of that, takes the voltage up so the amperage must go down (at least the maximum amperage output at one specific RPM).

Everything you're describing is normal except it going down to 12.80 while in motion. I would guess that means you've messed it up. Get the CS144. You won't have to worry about it again.