Stock head bolts right nowTicking time bomb
Big cam and heads are not in...yet
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04-29-2015
Stock head bolts right now
Big cam and heads are not in...yet
04-29-2015
Get to making some money and do it right.Originally Posted by ADecker
Stock head bolts right now
Big cam and heads are not in...yet
04-29-2015
I have heads and and ST5 in my basement, along with a double roller. Head studs on the way then the 600+ wHP fun begins.
04-29-2015
Git-R-Dun
04-29-2015
GTP rods are stronger than NA rods, gtp crank is better as well, we used gtp bottom end and put diamond racing dished pistons with a t66 up top on my buddies impala.
the gtp rods are stronger for sure, it was an NA block.
Also for reference we had done a quick fun run and my Z28 was a mid 11 second 1/4 daily driver and the impala put buss lengths on me and he had subs/box/tools/full interior... Since the car never ran at the track our best estimate is it was at least a mid 10 second car.
04-29-2015
GTP crank is the exact same crank as the NA crank. Rods are made of same materials.
04-30-2015
Sorry I realized I did not specify, we used the crank and rods from a gen 3 gtp. Although I think there were some differences between 2004 to 2005. I apologize for that I guess that's what I get for sitting here at work with 4 tasks to do and trying to read stuff here, I am getting too old for this multi tasking crap.
04-30-2015
Yeah, that was the series 2/series 3 changeover. However the only thing different still was the rods...they went from cast to powdered metal. Cranks remained the same for gen 2 and 3 though.
04-30-2015
Yeah that is correct as well, I had to look everything back up when I saw your reply to my post, I then realized I had not specified the correct generation. I was there to assemble and measure tolerances, that car was a blast though so many unsuspecting victims.
04-29-2015
and pistons are fine. stock.
04-29-2015
Don't want to go with a turbo yet I'd like to stay with my blower to c where I stand with the guys round here
04-29-2015
The way things wear and warp in these engines makes it really hard without the correct (expensive) tools and (expensive) machine work to make it worth it. Here is the real question:
If ZZP made an 8 sec pass on a stock bottom end, and no one on here is even remotely close to having a (single engine) turbo setup near capable of an 8 sec (800+HP) pass, why bother building the motor. You wont hit the limits, why raise them?
04-29-2015
I have built a lot of different engines, and they have been complete rebuilds, other than the Lycoming (aviation machine shop) most went to the machine shop and everything has a micrometer put on it afterwards. I also have more tools than the average guy would have. I mean if your rebuilding with nothing more than plasti-gages, a socket set and a torque wrench you don't have the proper tools for building the engine anyway. Sure a lot of people get by with less but I just chalk that up to EFS. Who in their right mind would rebuild an engine, especially a high performance engine without having everything properly checked and machined? I'm not in need of a new motor, mine is in good shape so far, and if I were I'd end up pulling a JY motor and take it down mark it up and take it to the shop have the work done get the parts back and check them. That's if I wanted something different from stock like changing compression ratio or something major, other than that I would probably just drop in a low mileage JY motor. This isn't the 60's anymore where a 60k engine was on its last legs.
Edit: now on the flip side of that coin if you were told you shouldn't rebuild an engine because it'll blow up and you rebuild it and it works fine and you don't have any problems would you come back to this forum?
I would like to know more about this 8 sec pass on a stock shortblock. While anything is possible, these guys ran a cast crank, hypereutectic piston engine and made 800+hp? For how long?
Jeff
Last edited by J57ltr; 04-29-2015 at 03:29 PM.
04-29-2015
The most recent part out here was from a blown motor after a full rebuild.... He thought the same thing - took it in had it balanced and everything. Scary
04-29-2015
What's a "blown motor" is that thr same as "it's broke, it don't work". Come on guys there is no technical discussion on these issues it sounds like a bunch of kids that hear something from one or two sources and take it as gospel. I'm interested in root cause analysis not conjecture. This is the technical discussion area correct?
if I remember my 3.8L history correctly the Ford 3.8L is a copy of the Buick 3.8 with a few changes. So you mean to tell me that Ford can make a better copy than GM can make original?
Jeff
04-30-2015
Welcome to GPF.
04-29-2015
There's a few guys that rebuilt them with success but way more that ended up with a 200 mile motor and a hole in their pocket. Casper rebuilt one not to long ago and last I heard still good to go. The main point I thick most of us share is after what's 2k in machine work at the end of the day one could easily pick up a motor for $300-500.. Replace a few gasket and have a motor that probably outlast the car.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
04-29-2015
Ford 3.8's should have come from the factory with 2 headgaskets in the glovebox.
they took a good engine and ****ed it all up.
04-29-2015
Thank you Redcompg, that's a much better answer. But I would still like to know what failure modes they have seen. So what makes this any different from the 3.8 Buick engine used in the grand national and regal T type?
regarding the Ford 3.8, yes the head gasket monster is alive and well on those engines, though my 95 Taurus has 175k and been a great engine. My Tbird was a PITA, but running 13psi bone stock with a restrictive exhaust isn't helping along with Aluminum heads and most people's lack of being able to properly bleed the cooling system. We used copper then Comitec (sp) head gaskets and they are much better than the originals. Currently there are several under 10 second cars on the forum and at least 14 that are 12 or under. It's not a bad engine if you know what you are doing. Aluminum headed, sequential fuel injected supercharged AND intercooled from the factory in 1989 no less.
04-29-2015
The main reason these engines fail during rebuild is people neglect the fact that if you take out the crank, you have to have the block checked for proper straightness on the crank journals due to the design of the crank main caps. Over a period of heating and cooling cycles, the block wants to "warp" and the only thing keeping it from doing that is those caps. You can put rod bearings in all day long as long as you pay attention to the production date on the block (you can't put rod bearings in a 95 block...the thickness is wrong...I've measured this on multiple early block 3800.) If you have a block dated year 97 and up, you can put rod bearings in as long as you measure properly...and I'm not just talking plastigage...the rod journals and the big end of the rod must be measured as well. Good luck with your rebuild.
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